Swapping out the stock insoles for something better is an easy way to get a better fitting and more supportive shoe without buying another pair.

SOLE insoles have been in my hiking boots and ski boots for a long time. I never have any problems with fit in trail runners but as soon as I go to hiking boots and ski boots I always have to tweak the fit with a SOLE insole.

This review is on the Performance Medium from SOLE, a medium-volume, carbon negative (!) insole meant for trail runners and hiking boots.

First, here’s the basic specs and then we’ll dig into the details.

Specs

• SOLE Performance series
• Medium thickness
• Softec cushioning
• base made with ReCORK recycled wine corks
• Zero drop
• Polygiene technology
• 3.2 mm thick
• reduces planta fascia strain

The SOLE Performance Medium Insole

Performance is the product series and Medium is the thickness. Let’s start with the Medium thickness.

Each of the lines of insoles that SOLE has a thickness. If there isn’t much space in your shoes like a dress show or something that’s tight already, then you can go with the Thin insoles. If you have lots of room in your boot and need lots of cushioning, then get the Thick insoles.

The insoles are zero drop. Most of my shoes are not but I prefer as little drop as I can find. And they’ll maintain the zero drop of shoes that are already zero. Drop is the height different from the front to the back of the shoe. Most shoes have a few millimetres difference. Some coming out these days are low or zero drop meaning the heel and the toe are at the same height, just like standing in your bare feet on the ground.

The Polygiene stays fresh technology keeps the bacteria out that makes things stink. They stay decent-smelling longer. I’m not going to say they stay flowery fresh forever because, well, they’re in my wet trail shoes that don’t smell great at the best of times!

One of the best parts is the deep heel cup. They prevent your heel from sliding left and right. I find this more a problem in hiking boots on uneven terrain. And when your heel starts slipping, your friendly neighbourhood blisters start showing up.

Okay, time to look at molding these insoles, how good they feel and how they’re made with a bunch of recycled wine corks.

Molding SOLE insoles

There are 2 ways to mold the SOLE insoles to get a better fit.

The first is to heat them in the oven for 2 minutes at 200° F. This uses more energy but is faster to do.

The second is just to wear them. The pressure and heat from your feet will push them into a better position for your feet. This will be more eco-friendly as it doesn’t use a stove but it takes a few days.

Wearing them around feels a bit odd. I have relatively low arches and the support was pushing up hard to start. Good for higher arches! After a couple days it warmed up and packed down into the correct spot for my foot. If the arches are bit tall for your feet take it easy on the first couple times wearing.

Performance of the Performance

I love how the Performance insoles feel after they’re worn in. They have just enough arch support and keep your heel in place. For shoes that didn’t have enough padding, they provide more and help stave off those sore feet.

They didn’t work in some of my shoes where there wasn’t enough space. The Mediums are a medium thickness and took up too much space in my shoe. I would have to go with the Thin versions of the SOLEs for those shoes (which have a ReCORK version too).

Carbon Negative ReCORK Base

Clearly, you’d want an insole because your shoe isn’t comfortable or doesn’t fit properly. It has to work.

On top of making your shoes more comfortable, SOLE have created an insole that’s not just carbon neutral, but carbon negative, to produce.

The base of the Performance Medium footbeds is made of recycled wine corks. Through a program called ReCORK that SOLE started, they collect old wine corks, grind them up and create footbed bases that are shock-absorbing, durable, and antibacterial.

Why use cork?

Most shoes use some sort of foam to build up the base like EVA. This foam comes from, you guessed it, fossil fuels. More oil has to come out of the ground to make the foam in shoes.

Instead of those corks going into the garbage (they can be composted but I’m sure most aren’t) they can be recycled and sent to SOLE through the ReCORK recycling program.

So one source of the cork is saving used corks from hitting the landfill. Another is straight from cork trees.

ReCORK has collected more than 128,772,485 corks so far. They even have a search on their website to help you search for wine bottles that use real ‘cork’ cork.

Carbon Negative Cork

To calculate the carbon emissions of the entire life of a Performance Medium footbed, SOLE walks through every step from finding the raw materials to making the footbed (even cooking it in the oven to mold it) and calculates the carbon required.

To sort out how much carbon a Performance Medium takes to create, they work with a company that specializes in calculating carbon emissions. They found that getting the raw materials, making the product, transporting everything and disposing of it all takes 1.87 kg of of CO2 equivalent for each pair of footbed.

What’s different about the cork versions of these footbeds is that the small amount of cork included actually sequestered 4.15 kg of CO2 from the atmosphere. So while it was growing, the cork tree sucked out an average of 55 times the amount of CO2 from the atmosphere that it stored in the tree and in the cork.

After the cork tree pulled 4.15 kg of CO2 from the atmosphere, SOLE put 1.87 kg back into the atmosphere making the footbed. But at the end of the day I got the footbeds after 2.28 kg of CO2 were pulled from the atmosphere. By using cork these footbeds aren’t just carbon neutral, but carbon negative.

Cork comes from bark of the cork oak tree. The cork can be harvested without cutting down the tree. It keeps on living after a bark harvest. In fact, it starts to pull more CO2 to grow back the cork that it lost. Cork trees can be ‘peeled’ every 9 to 12 years, and up to 15 times over the 200 year life of a cork tree.

Climate Neutral or Carbon Negative?

SOLE and ReCORK work with CO2 Negative, a company that provides carbon labelling and carbon negative certification. They walk through product life cycles (from getting the raw material to people buying, using and disposing of them) and measure how much carbon is produced at each step. They help companies put labels on each of their products showing how much CO2 equivalent the product produces so we can make better decisions when buying new products.

CO2 Negative is similar to the Climate Neutral Initiative. Climate Neutral is a few years old and so has more members. So far they have 264 members that go through the 3 steps. Every year, each company measures how much carbon the company produced in all of its operations. They then pay for carbon offsets to bring the company up to carbon neutral. Last is a plan for the next year to reduce carbon emissions to begin with. Once they’re certified they’re allowed to use the Climate Neutral tag on all their products.

Both initiatives put labels on product that let us consumers know what the company is doing to reduce greenhouse gas emissions and prevent climate change.

SOLE Active versus Performance

SOLE has a bunch of different kinds of insoles and footbeds. See here for a quick comparison.

Their biggest ranges are Active and Performance. Performance is the line in this review. Active is a very similar footbed but made with EVA foam instead from fossil fuel.

Within the Active and Performance lines, there’s different thicknesses: Thin, Medium and Thick. If you don’t have much room in your shoe then Thin probably works. If you have a lot of extra space to fill then go with Thick.

Two other options to pick from are Wide and Met Pad. Choices are a bit more limited when you start to go wide or include the Met Pad.

Wide is just wider than standard width. If you have a wider trail runner or boot, go with the Wide footbed to cover the whole area.

The Met Pad is for reducing strain on the ball of your foot. It lifts the ball of your foot slightly to line up better with your toes and should reduce pain there.

The insoles in this review are the Medium thickness in the Performance Series. SOLE says the Performance Collection is:

• Made with recycled cork
• Carbon negative
• Molds quicker to your feet through wear
• Cork is naturally shock absorbing, antimicrobial and insulating

The Active Collection is:

• Made with EVA foam
• Ultra durable – withstands prolonged high-intensity use
• Best for swapping between shoes

Conclusion

Lots of of people slide on a shoe or boot and go hiking and they have never have any issues with fit or blisters. I’m jealous of those people. I’ve spent years fiddling around with insoles, taping, socks and different boots to get a good fit.

Insoles are a cheaper way to get more support in a boot or take up extra space. SOLE have been making insoles for years and have types for all shoes. The Performance (with the cork base) and the Active (with the EVA foam base) have been my favourites.

The Performance Medium in this review is excellent for mid to low volume feet that require a bit of support. If you have flat feet, you probably don’t need these. By walking or heating for 2 minutes in the oven, they will form to your feet and you get custom orthotics for a fraction of the cost of real custom.

If you have had success with other SOLE insoles, you’ll like the Performance line too. Best part is they are carbon negative. The base is made with recycled wine corks saving them from the landfill. All SOLE insoles are getting a carbon label from now on, regardless if they’re carbon negative or positive.

The post Review: SOLE Performance Medium Carbon Negative Insoles first appeared on Pack & Trail.

We pulled together all the different solutions we’ve tried or seen work over the years so you hopefully don’t have to suffer through sore feet on a hike again.

Disclaimer: I’m not a doctor. If something hurts a lot go see a doctor.

Buy good boots

Buying good boots and shoes that fit well will prevent a lot of problems down the road, err, trail.

How do you buy good boots you might ask?

Spend a lot of time in them when you’re buying. There is no magic pair of boots that will be perfect for everyone, but there is a perfect pair for your feet out there somewhere. Wear them in the store when you buy them and in the house. Most stores will take back boots that haven’t been worn outside no problem.

Test test test. If you have any issues whatsoever that can’t be sorted with different insoles or lacing, take them back and try others.

Make sure the boots have enough room for your toes to spread out, your heel doesn’t slip up and down on inclines or stairs and your toes don’t hit the end going downhill.

See our guide to buying hiking boots for more details.

Also take care of your boots. Keep them clean. Condition the uppers if they are leather. Re-waterproof them every year. Don’t dry them near hot items. Store them in stable temperatures. Take care of your boots and they’ll take care of you.

Pick the right boots

Wait we just bought the right boots, right?

Yes, but this part is picking the right boots for the trip. Don’t wear bigger boots than you have to. In fact don’t wear boots at all if you can.

Trail runners and hiking shoes are lighter and more flexible than hiking boots. Your legs will have to lift less and won’t get tired as quickly. They tend to be mesh and very breathable.

Don’t hike 20 km in trail runners with 40 pounds on your back the first day. You’ll have to work up to that and break in your feet too, but you’ll get there.

Waterproof boots are good for wet weather, cold and snowy conditions. For the rest try to wear lighter weight shoes and your feet will thank you.

Break in your boots

Most hiking boots need to be broken in. Start at home wearing them around the house. Make sure you are going to keep them.

Get out on errands around town or working. Then upgrade to short hikes on the trails and work up from there. Never make big jumps in mileage or weight on your back. Lighter, more flexible boots will be easier to break in. Larger leather boots will take the longest.

For the steps we recommend to break in your boots see our guide to breaking in hiking boots.

Break in your feet

Along with breaking in your boots, you’ll need to break in your feet. They might be used to sitting on the couch and walking around work, not being thrashed through the woods for 20 km.

Just like if you working up to lifting 200 pounds at the gym, start small and work up. Every time you go out walk a bit longer or carry a bit more weight.

Walking outside barefoot also helps toughen up your feet. Running around on the beach will thicken the skin and strengthen your foot muscles.

Stretch feet and legs

Muscles can get stiff and tight as you hike. They get tighter, pull on parts of your legs and feet in the wrong way, resulting in pain.

Here are a few stretches you can do on the trail, on breaks or at camp, to loosen up those tight muscles.

Heel raises – Stand with your toes on a raised surface like a stair, tent pad, or rock, holding something for balance. Lift up on your toes and raise your heels higher than what you’re standing on. Now slowly drop your heels down going lower than your toes until you feel a stretch.

Ball roll – Bring a golf, lacrosse or cork ball with you (cork is lightest). At camp or on breaks put your foot on the ball and roll it around, massaging your feet. Focus on tighter spots and gradually push harder. Breathe deeply as you work into the tight spots.

Ankle circles – With your toes on the ground and your heel in the air, slowly move your ankle in a clockwise direction starting with smaller circles and expanding to larger ones. Switch directions and then switch feet.

Calf stretch – Standing with both feet together facing forward, step one foot forward. Keep both heels on the ground and push your hips forward slightly. You should feel a bit of a stretch in the calf muscle of the back foot. I find it easier to lean on something like a tree.

Thera-band stretch – Sit with your feet out in front of you. Wrap a t-shirt, towel or Thera-band (large elastic band for working out) around the balls and toes on one foot. Pull back slightly. This will stretch the calf of that foot.

Any weight training you can do that works your feet, ankles and legs will pay off in spades hiking. Hiking a lot is also one way to work out those legs!

Better insoles

The insoles that come with your boots are likely thin with low support. Aftermarket insoles like SOLE and Superfeet have stronger arch support. If your feet don’t take up all the vertical space in your boots, you can use insoles to take up that room so your feet slip around less.

When shopping for insoles match up the height of the arch support with your foot. If you have a low arch, you won’t need much support. Also match the thickness of your insole. If your boot is already a good volume (the space inside) for your foot, then you’ll just need a thin one.

Hotspots and Blisters

Hotspots are small irritations on your skin when something rubs. It can be a bit of dirt, tight spot on your boot, a sock wrinkle, your heel sliding up and down or toes rubbing together. Hotspots can lead to blisters if they aren’t dealt with.

Always stop immediately if there is something irritating your feet. Your hiking buddies may not want to stop but better to address a small issue now, than have to deal with a larger issue later.

Common solutions for hotspots are taping up with medical tape, Leukotape, or moleskin. Duct tape can even work if you don’t have anything else. Anything to take the friction instead of your skin. Lubricating with a Runner’s Glide or HikeGoo can work well. Some people swear by a foot powder to soak up the moisture. Careful with how much you use as it can clump and cause problems.

If you know you get hotspots in some places after a certain distance you might want to pre-tape. A particularly long day on the trail might require taping before anything is even a problem. Changing socks can help clean out dirt and dust, and put a fresh dry sock back on your skin.

See our guide on preventing and treating blisters for more about how not to get hotspots and blisters.

Clean and chill feet

Dirty feet can cause hotspots and blisters. Hot feet can be swollen and irritated. Dunking those feet in a cold stream or lake is one of the best parts of hiking.

Give those feet a scrub if you can. Get all the dirt and grime off. If you are going to use soap, make sure it’s away from the water source itself and the soap is biodegradable. Please don’t dump soap into a water source.

Water bladders full of cold water also feel good if you’re a distance away from the water. And make sure those feet are nice and dry before hiking again.

Good socks, changed regularly

Try not to hike in cotton socks. They absorb water and keep it against your skin which is not what we want. Synthetic or merino wool is best. I prefer merino as it wicks well and smells less.

Keep the socks as thin as possible. Thinner socks are cooler and more breathable, leading to less sweat and less hotspots and blisters.

Rotating through 2 pairs of socks works great. If I can spare the weight I like to wear one pair in the morning, change into another pair for the afternoon and a third in camp. Try and keep the camp pair is dry for sleeping if it’s cold (although I hate sleeping in socks).

Keep the socks as clean. Wash them if you can. Gaiters help keep the stuff out.

If you often run into issues with blisters on toes, try to switch to footwear with a wider toe box that doesn’t squish your toes together, and try toe socks. Toe socks have a spot for each toe like a glove and take the friction instead of your skin.

Air out your feet

Even with the best ventilation, moisture can accumulate in your boots and shoes. If your boots have a waterproof membrane, it’s actually trapping moisture inside. That moisture can lead to blisters.

Any time you stop for lunch or camp, air out those feet. Pull off your boot and socks, even the insoles in your boots, and let everything dry out. Prevents blisters and feels great too.

Mesh boots or trail runners offer better ventilation than waterproof ones, so choose mesh whenever you can. Your feet will be drier with less irritation.

Elevate your legs

Putting your legs up can improve circulation and reduce swelling. When you’re on a break or in camp get them up higher than your heart by laying on the ground or in a hammock.

Massage your feet

Giving your feet a good ol’ massage feels great and will probably have you walking better the next day too. With just 30 seconds of massage, you can reduce foot pain and inflammation and reduce chances of plantar fasciitis. I’m not saying it’s going to get rid of it all but it will certainly help.

You can just use your hands to massage or a ball like a lacrosse or cork ball. Cork balls are lighter.

To massage with a cork ball, set the ball on the ground and put your foot on it, either sitting or standing. Roll it around, pressing into your foot, looking for tight places in your foot.

Another good option is a toe massage.

Toe massage: Interlace toes and fingers and flex back and forth. Do 10 times on each foot. (good one from Bearfoottheory.com)

Clip toenails

If your toenails are sharp or long, it’s going to cause problems. They can dig into toes next to them and cut or cause blisters. If they’re too long out the front and your boots are too short, they’ll bang against the end resulting in black or lifting toenails.

Lighten pack

More weight is harder on your feet. The lighter your boots, shoes and pack are the better. Start by leaving anything unnecessary at home. Stay safe and take essentials and safety gear but try to travel light. If you’re hungry for new gear, lighten up what you currently carry.

Lace differently

Sometimes just lacing different can make a difference with how your feet feel.

Heel lock lacing can keep your heel in place.

Surgeon’s knots let you lace the bottom a different tightness from the top.

Window lacing runs laces around sore spots on the top of your feet.

See our guide to lacing your boots for more ideas on how to make your feet happy.

Plantar Fasciitis

Plantar Fasciitis sucks. It’s painful. Walking is hard.

There’s a fascia that runs along the bottom of your foot, connecting your toes to your heel along the arch of your foot. When that fascia is inflamed every step can feel like your heel is on fire. If you think you have this, check with your doctor on what to do with it. Stretching and ice usually helps me.

To help prevent it we can do a few things.

Good boots with good insoles will let you feet move like they should while getting support underneath in the arch area. Aftermarket insoles will help support your arch better than the thin ones that come in most boots, especially if you have high arches.

Work up from low distances and weight. Starting at 20km with 40 pounds on your back will kill your feet (not to mention the rest of you). Start small and work up, increasing a bit of distance and weight at the same time. This is part of breaking in your feet.

See the stretching and rolling sections above. Take care of your feet. Stretch and roll before, on and after the trail.

Comments

Do you have any go to methods for keeping your feet happy and healthy? We’d love to hear them in the comments below for everyone else to try.

The post How to Prevent Sore Feet Hiking first appeared on Pack & Trail.

You try and search hiking boots online. Now there’s hundreds of options. More overwhelm.

How do we find narrow the options for hiking boots down to a sane number and get back on the trail?

How do we get boots that aren’t painful to wear and won’t result in blisters?

This post will walk you though one of the mos timportant things you’ll do before hiking: choosing good footwear.

What kind of hiking?

The first thing we need to do before buying any boots is decide what kind of hiking we want to do. Knowing these things will help sort some of the decisions later.

What kind of terrain do you want to hike?

Any kind of hiking boot or shoe will do fine on smooth, even terrain. Bigger boots will likely be overkill. This is great place to start for beginners though.

Steep, uneven terrain is going to be harder and demand more skill and more supportive, durable boots or shoes.

How far do you want to hike?

Hiking farther is more tiring on your legs and feet. Supportive boots and shoes can help

Supportive boots can protect your feet on long hikes. They’re also heavier.

How heavy of a pack will you carry?

A heavier pack on your back is harder on your feet. More supportive shoes and boots protect your feet and ankles when they get tired.

Waterproof or breathable?

There are 2 main categories of boots and shoes: waterproof and breathable.

Waterproof boots have some sort of waterproof fabric, or membrane, wrapped around the foot. These keep the rain, snow and puddles out. In cool temperatures, the membrane can let the sweat and moisture out from inside. When it’s warm, that moisture is mostly trapped inside.

Breathable boots are covered in thin materials or mesh that easily let sweat out from inside. Your feet stay cooler and more comfortable in dry weather, drying faster if they do get wet. In wet weather, your feet the water just goes through.

Boots, hiking shoes or trail runners?

Hiking boots aren’t the only option for hiking these days. Lightweight trail runners and the hybrid hiking shoes are great options in some cases.

The differences come down to height, weight, support and durability.

Hiking boots

Hiking boots are taller, tend to be waterproof and usually support your ankles and feet more with a rigid structure.

Because of the height and stiffness of hiking boots, they are usually heavier than hiking shoes and trail runners.

Thicker fabrics and stiffer midsoles in hiking boots also mean they are the most durable of the shoe types. They will last the longest being bashed around on the trail.

Breaking in boots the longest. This means gradually molding the boot to your feet by wearing them a lot.

One last thing to note about hiking boots is that there are different types within this category.

• Day hiking boots are lightweight and flexible while still being waterproof
• Backpacking boots are taller, stiffer and more durable. Meant for long hikes with a heavy pack.
• Mountaineering boots are more specialized for alpine environments and can be very stiff, insulated or compatible with crampons

Hiking shoes

Hiking shoes are basically a low-cut hiking boot. They are lighter than hiking boots but more supportive and durable than trail runners.

Some hiking shoes have waterproof membranes, but can be just breathable fabrics too.

Thinner materials in hiking shoes are more comfortable out of the box and require less break-in time than hiking boots.

Trail runners

Trail runners are the lightest weight out of the categories. With every step you are moving half or less the weight of a hiking boot.

The thinner, lighter materials are more comfortable out of the box and require little to no break in time. We would never recommend hiking long distances with brand new shoes but you probably could with some trail runners.

Compared to hiking boots and hiking shoes, trail runners mid and outer soles are the most flexible. Your feet will feel everything on the trail, letting you place your feet well in uneven terrain but little protection against rocks and roots. They will wrap around rocks on the trail making your feet do the work.

Most trail runners are very breathable, keeping your feet cool, reducing the chances of blisters. Some have waterproof membranes to keep the puddles out.

We recommend trail runners for going light and fast or if you have strong legs and feet from hiking or other exercise. The weight savings is worth it but start easy when switching to trail runners.

We’ll get into the most important part getting new boots (the fit) below. But first, a quick look at parts of a boot.

Features

There’s a variety of different parts to a boot. Let’s have a look at what they are.

Uppers

Boots are made up up an upper on top, a midsole under your foot, and an outsole on the bottom.

Uppers hold the laces and can be a few different materials or a combination.

Full-grain Leather

Full-grain leather uppers are the classic smooth leather hiking boot. They are durable and very resistant to abrasion. They have good water resistance as well without a waterproof membrane, though sometimes have one.

Often in backpacking boots, full-grain leather works well for rough terrain and heavy loads. It’s not as breathable as the thinner split-grain leather and requires a good amount of time to break in.

Split-grain leather

Split-grain leather is the bottom leather of leather after the top-grain is removed. It’s thinner, more breathable, and costs less.

Split-grain is less water and abrasion resistant so it’s usually paired with a waterproof membrane and stitched to nylon or nylon mesh.

Nubuck leather

Nubuck leather is just full-grain leather buffed to look textured like suede. It’s very durable, water and abrasion resistant. It’s relatively flexibly but like full-grain can require a good amount of time to break in.

Synthetics

Outside of the leathers we have all the synthetic materials boots can be made from. Polyester, nylon and ‘synthetic leather’ are often used. They’re lighter than leather, dry faster, cost less but are less durable. Synthetic boots are often faster and easier to break in.

Waterproof membranes

Full-grain leather is naturally water resistant but the other materials need a waterproof layer or ‘membrane’ to make them ‘waterproof’. They’re built into the boot like a bag around your foot to keep the rain and puddles out. Gore-Tex, eVent and Outdry are different waterproof membrane materials.

Keeping the water out also reduces breathability and can trap moisture in. Breathable membranes do breathe in cool conditions but struggle in warm conditions trapping moisture in. They never breathe as well as a boot without a membrane. Membranes don’t last forever. At some point, you’ll end up with a water-resistant boot, not a waterproof one.

Midsoles

Midsoles are hard to see in a boot. They usually are completely wrapped in the upper and outsole. You can usually see the midsole if you pull out the insole and look inside.

The midsole is what gives the cushioning and protection for your feet. They help provide the stiffness in supportive boots. They give your foot something to stand on when you’re standing on the edge of a root or rock and prevent your foot from wrapping around every root and rock.

Midsoles are usually made from EVA foam (lighter, less expensive and can be varying densities) or polyurethane (firmer, more durable, often in bigger boots).

Internal Support and Protection

Bigger boots will often have shanks and plates inside to help stiffen the boot and protect your feet.

Shanks are 3-5mm thick inserts between the midsole and outsole to add stiffness. Some run the whole length of the boot, some only part way.

Plates, or rock plates, are smaller, semi-flexible inserts between the insole and outsole, below the shank, to protect your feet from sharp roots and rocks.

Outsoles

The bottom of the shoe that hits the ground is called the outsole. They’re made out of rubber, sometimes with added carbon, and designed to keep you rubber side down on any kind of terrain.

The rubber in a sole can be softer and grippier but won’t last as long. A harder rubber will last longer but won’t be as sticky. Trail runners usually have a softer, stickier sole whereas hiking boots will have a harder, sole that will last longer.

Lugs are the bumps on the bottom. Deeper lugs will grip better on mud but less on rock. More space in between the lugs will shed mud better.

The heels usually have an edge to them as they meet the arch part of the outsole. This is called the heel brake and helps slow you down and keep control on descents.

Insoles

Insoles are pretty simple. They’re the removable inner part of the shoe.

All boots will come with basic, thin insoles.

Many kinds of aftermarket insoles are available that can be fit just right for your boots and feet. Some can be cut to be the exact size you need and many can be heat molded to fit your foot just right.

When buying insoles, you’ll need to find ones that match the height and support you need. If there is extra room inside your boot, taller insoles will take up some of that space. And if the stock insoles don’t give your arch enough support, then look for others that will. Some insoles like SOLE offer considerable support under the arch.

Fit

Fit is absolutely the most important part to finding the best boot. If it doesn’t fit well, then you’re going to hurt on the trail.

This section covers some tips to getting a good fit. The rest of these tips apply to boots, hiking shoes and trail runners.

How should a boot fit?

The best phrase I’ve heard describe how a boot should fit is “snug everywhere, tight nowhere.“

When you get to the store, start with brands you’ve had success with in the past. Their shape will likely be similar to what you’ve already tried.

But don’t be afraid to try other brands. Brands sometimes change their molds (called a ‘last’ in the boot world) and can use different lasts in different lines they sell.

When you try boots on, try to do it at the end of the day, when your feet are more swollen from walking around all day. This will be closer to the end of the day hiking. Bring the sock you plan to hike with and bring any orthotics you’d like to use. Both will change how the boot fits.

To properly fit a boot, an index finger should fit behind your heel after sliding your toes all the way forward with unlaced boots. Another way is to take the insoles out and stand on it. There should be a finger width from your toes to the end.

Volume matters too. This is how big and tall your foot is. Lace up the boots tightly. If there is any room above for your foot to move, then that boot has too much volume inside and you need less.

With the boots firmly tied up, there shouldn’t be any points that pinch, your foot shouldn’t slide front to back at all and your heel shouldn’t slide up and down.

Now to walk. Hiking isn’t done sitting down so testing hiking boots shouldn’t either.

Testing and Breaking in Boots

Spend as much time as you can testing boots. Walk around the store and see how they feel. Find some stairs or inclines to make sure the heel doesn’t slide up and down.

If everything feels really good at the store, nothing slips and nothing pinches, it’s time to take them home to test there.

If you can, spend a few weeks gradually wearing the boots more and more at home, then outside, then on errands. Spend as much time in them during the day just like you would on a long hike. If you run into any issues testing inside at home, you should be able to exchange for another pair no problem.

For more tips on breaking in your new boots and getting ready for the trail see How to Break in New Hiking Boots.

Now it’s time to get on the trail?

Do you have any boot buying tips?

Have you tried any of these tips? Did it work? I’d love to hear your tips in the comments below.

Or do you have any of your own tips that you use when buying new hiking boots and shoes?

Was there a time where you didn’t follow the tips and it didn’t work out well?

What are your favourite boots and why?

I hope these tips help you get into a good pair of boots. Hiking can be an awful experience with boots that don’t fit but life-changing when you do find good ones.

Happy hiking!

The post How to buy hiking boots first appeared on Pack & Trail.

What really causes blisters? How can you prevent them so you don’t have to deal with that pain out hiking?

What causes blisters?

So what is this little evil thing called a blister?

Blisters happen when friction, and sometimes pressure and moisture, gang up on your foot and try the rub the skin off.

Think of rubbing the skin on a peach. Rub hard enough or long enough and the skin will separate from the peach underneath.

That space in between fills with fluid to help heal the damaged tissue. This separated skin and the fluid underneath creates what we affectionately know as a blister.

Tight spots in our boots, a winkle in our sock, or our heel rubbing up and down all can create the friction over hundreds or thousands of steps hiking to make a blister. Sweaty feet from a hot day or carrying a heavy pack just makes it worse.

So if blisters are caused by friction, pain and moisture, and we take those things away, we should be able to save ourselves the pain of a blister.

Tips to prevent blisters

There are so many different causes of blisters and things we can do to prevent them. I’ve done my best to list many of them here but others might work for you. If something has worked well (or NOT) let us know in the comments so everyone else can learn.

STOP(!) and treat hot spots right away

If you feel a hotspot anywhere in your boot, stop and address it right away. Hotspots turn into blisters. They’ll be a bit sore and red.

Continuing to hike on it is likely just going to make it worse.

It’s awkward to ask to stop every time and figure out what’s going on but its worse to have to hike with blisters.

If it’s just a hot spot, tape it up with moleskin, medical tape, or Leukotape. 2 or 3 overlapping pieces should help. Round the edges os they don’t peel in your socks. Duct tape or bandaids work in a pinch. If the tape help try to leave it on till you get home.

See down below after the tips for how to treat a blister if it’s been left too long.

Try to relace your shoes differently when you get them back on to reduce pressure or rubbing on that spot. See How to lace your hiking boots for tips on different ways to lace boots.

Clean your boots and feet if you can before you put them back on. Often dirt and junk that’s got into your boots are the source of a blister.

Change your lacing

There’s more than one way to lace a boot.

You’re aiming for a snug but comfortable fit where no parts of your foot slide or rub.

Laces that are too tight, might pinch in spots or put your foot to sleep.

Laces that are too loose, let your foot move too much in your boot, rubbing where it shouldn’t.

To lace the top and bottom of the boot differently, put a basic overhand knot before going up the eyelets at the ankle. This lets you lace the foot part of the boot tighter or looser than the leg portion.

To keep your heel from slipping or lace around a sore spot on the top of your feet see How to lace your boots for more options.

Before you go up or down a big hill, try to tighten up your lacing. They can loosen while you hike. Big inclines can cause heel rub. Big declines can hammer your toes into the end of your boots.

Don’t wear hiking boots at all

I’m not talking about going barefoot, but if that’s your thing, by all means. Less boot to rub.

The heavier and thicker the shoe or boot, the more likely it is to rub.

Wearing light hiking shoes or very light trail runners is even better. They are softer and more comfortable to start and tend not to rub or pinch as much.

Light shoes still need to be broken in. See that in the next 2 tips.

Also see Why lighter hiking shoes and trail runners are often better than hiking boots.

Wear hiking boots that fit well

If you are going to wear hiking boots, make sure they fit well from the store.

For more, see our guide on how to buy hiking boots.

Spend as long as you can in the store testing out pairs and walking around. The more time you spend in them there the better. All boots have different shapes so try as many as you can in a good store where they know the shapes and differences of the boots.

Make sure there are room for your toes to spread out side to side and they aren’t hitting the ends of the boot. You don’t want your foot sliding side to side but toes need to spread out and will expand the longer you hike.

To make sure you have enough room for your toes, slide your foot forward and make sure you can get an index finger behind your heel.

Many stores will have a small incline you can walk up and down on with your hiking boots to see how they feel. Make sure you can comfortably lace them and not have your heel slip up and down. Try placing your feet sideways or diagonal moving around and make sure your feet aren’t sliding sideways either but are comfortably held in place.

Finding a really good fit in the store is half the battle to preventing blisters.

Try never to do long hikes in new boots. Ouch. You’ll need to break them in.

That leads to the next point.

Break boots in

Breaking in a pair of boots is the process of working in the boots to confirm to your feet.

Every boot will be made around a standard mold, or ‘last’, in the factory. That mold might be very similar to your foot or not. But it’s never going to be exactly the same. Through the breaking in process, we want to adjust that boot shape to fit your foot exactly.

The basic process is:

1. Get good boots in store by spending a lot of time in them
2. Spend time in your boots at home, walking the stairs
3. Try errands and more time outside with them
4. Short hikes in your boots, slowly increasing moisture, distance and weight you carry
5. Your full hike

See a full explanation of the hiking boot break-in process.

Always keep an eye on what socks your wearing, the terrain you’re on and the weight you’re carrying. I find long inclines with a backpacking pack on often gives me blisters with heavier boots.

Break your feet in

Along with breaking in your boots, you have to break in your feet.

If they’re used to walking 2 or 3 kilometers a day in comfortable runners and you want to hike 15 kilometers a day with a 40 pounds pack for your hike, that’s a big difference. It’s like going into the gym and deadlifting 200 pounds right away. Your body needs time to adapt.

The break-in experience above will get your feet toughened up for hiking as well.

Keep Feet Dry

Moist feet will blister faster.

There are usually two causes of moisture:

• exterior (snow, rain and puddles)
• interior (sweat from a hot day, warm feet or hiking hard)

Here’s where things get tricky.

Waterproof membranes like Gore-Tex and eVent keep water out of boots, but they can often make it warmer and trap sweat in.

I like wearing waterproof boots when it’s wet and cold. Any other time I try to use something lighter and ventilated like a trail runner.

The ventilation lets your feet get wet but it also dries faster and cools them down.

Another option if you need to wear larger boots is to try rolling down your socks over the top of your boots. This is called the Chimney Effect and can cool down your feet. Thanks TheBigOutside.com for that tip.

If you know your feet will be wet, foot powder can help. Test before a big hike though as it can clump and cause blisters itself.

Air everything out

Every chance you get, air your feet, socks and boots out. When you have sit for lunch, when you get to camp, when you have a longer break.

This lets your feet, socks and boots dry out. Remember the first point above with blisters. Moisture makes skin softer and more susceptible to blisters.

Bonus points if you can wash your feet in a stream or lake when you take a break. It feels great and cleans off your feet. Remember to dry your feet before getting them back into your boots. That was the whole point of taking your boots off, right?

All that sweat your feet produce is trapped in your socks and boots when you hike, taking them both off gives them a chance to dry out.

Having a lightweight pair of sandals to wear around camp lets your boots, socks and feet dry out even more. These come in handy for stream crossings too.

If you want another way to increase recovery and reduce swelling on your breaks and at camp get your feet elevated. It feels great and it’s a good way to give you legs and feet a rest for the next day of hiking.

Plan for stream crossings

Crossing streams with your boots on just dumps a load of water into your boots. We’re trying to keep those feet dry.

Try to take a separate pair of lightweight shoes or sandals for stream crossings. It’s best to bring something that can be used as camp shoes as well.

Remember to dry your feet off when you get to the other side. A small camp towel or t-shirt works well.

If you’re have the time, taking a break near the stream to soak your feet in the water feels amazing.

Get good socks

Socks are the protective layer between your feet and the tough material of your boots.

The best hiking socks cushion your feet and will wick moisture away from your skin.

Any moisture like sweat or water from rain, will soften your skin, leaving it more susceptible to blisters. Good hiking socks will wick the moisture away from your skin, moving it up to your boots to (hopefully) be expelled out through the mesh or waterproof membrane.

Merino wool or merino blended with synthetic materials make for the best socks. They cushion well but still wick moisture away from your skin. Anything made with merino wool is going to be antibacterial, reducing the stink your socks give off after a day hiking. Pure synthetic will wick faster but stink more too.

Ideally socks will fit snug but not too tight. You don’t want them cutting off any circulation or pinching anywhere but won’t sag or bunch up in your boots.

For thickness, something that is just warm enough for your feet is good. Thick socks in hot weather will make your foot hot and sweaty. It will take some experimentation to see how thin of a sock you can use with your boots. Use thinner socks for warmer weather and lighter boots and shoes. Bigger boots and colder weather will require thicker socks.

Make sure your socks are high enough that your boots won’t touch your skin anywhere. That will rub the skin right off.

Never wear cotton socks to hike in. They do the opposite of wicking absorbing water, keeping it against your skin. That’s the last thing you want.

Liner socks

Liner socks are thin, often synthetic, socks to wear under your hiking socks.

Being synthetic, they wick moisture faster than a wool or wool blend.

But the main reason for having a thin liner sock on is to provide a rubbing layer. When your foot moves inside your boot, friction happens between the 2 sock layers instead of between your foot and a sock, reducing the chances of a blister.

Some people have success with this one, others don’t. I find it makes my feet too warm in all but the coldest conditions and can have issues bunching up.

Experiment with it and see if you can get it to work. A thin liner sock and a thin hiking sock might work.

There are double-layer socks you can buy that have the 2 layers built right in as well.

Try Toe Socks

If you get blisters between your toes you might benefit from toe socks.

Like toe shoes, toe socks have fabric around each of your toes. Instead of rubbing skin together in between toes, the fabric just rubs together.

Injinji makes good toe socks. There are also liner socks of the toe kind.

Cut toenails

This one isn’t necessarily a tip just for blisters but all of hiking.

Long, sharp toe nails can dig into your other toes and into the inside of your boots. Trim those nails up before a hike with nice rounded corners and your feet will thank you.

Change socks throughout the day

Wet socks lead to blisters. If your feet are getting wet from wet boots or sweat, it might keep them drier to swap out socks regularly.

If you have a couple pairs, you can swap the wet pair for a dry pair at lunch or on a break. If the weather is dry and warm, you can pin your socks to the outside of your bag and dry them out for the next swap.

Having another dry pair for in camp feels great and helps dry out your feet as well. Airing out your feet at camp a bonus.

Upgrade insoles

The insoles that come in most hiking boots are very basic, thin, with little support.

Adding better insoles to your boots can improve the fit.

Thicker insoles can take up extra space in your feet so they fit more snug. The less extra space in your shoes the less your feet with move. If you are in between sizes, insoles can take up that extra space too.

An added benefit is that you can get the exact amount of arch support you need from your insoles. Most stores will have a heat activated pad you can stand on that shows how high your arches are and what model insole you’ll need.

Superfeet and Sole insoles are great options.

Anti-chafing products

Wearing socks and boots that fit so well they don’t chafe is the goal.

Sometimes that’s just not possible and we need a little extra help. Sometimes you need to get home from a long hike with a blister or the mileage that day is larger than normal.

Some products let your foot slide a little better against your sock and boot. Products like Body Glide, Hike Goo and Vaseline reduce the friction. Vaseline can be a bit messy but in a pinch it’s better than a blister. These products often wear off with hiking and sweat so reapply as you go.

Another type of product that is new to the market is Wuru Wool Blister Wool. It’s a small clump of merino wool you can place in an area that rubs if you are going farther than usual or are getting a hotspot. The Blister Wool absorbs moisture and provides extra cushion and less friction on your skin.

Another option is products like Gold Bond powder that decreases the moisture and friction against your skin. Take care of this one as it may clump and cause other blisters.

Tape problem areas from the start

Some spots may just cause problems regularly. For me long inclines with a heavy pack or 20+ kilometer days usually cause problems with hotspots and blisters.

If you know of problem areas for you and you’re headed into blister territory, pre-tape.

Heels, balls of feet and toes are common areas for blisters.

Some people can just get away with a bit of medical tape. Sometimes the hike will need Moleskin with medical tape over top. Leukotape is a stickier medical tape that’s used in physio and sports.

Add the padding layer on first and then the stickier medical or Leukotape. Trim the corners so they dont’ roll up in your socks. Duct tape can work too. Its smooth face makes it easier slide.

Keep feet and boots clean

Dirt and crud from the trail can be the cause of some of your blisters. Don’t give them a chance to start. Clean your boots, socks and feet as often as possible and if you feel anything in there, stop and clean it out. Don’t walk on it any longer than you have to.

If your feet are wet after cleaning them in a stream or lake, don’t forget to dry them off as much as possible. A small pack towel is great for this.

Wear gaiters

To help keep the dirt out, gaiters are like jackets for your legs that fit over your boots or shoes.

They can be tall and waterproof for muddy, cooler hikes. There are also short, breathable options that can fit over trail runners.

They work on any trails specially sandy areas like the desert or beach.

Treating Blisters

Pop or not?

Everyone will have their own opinion on popping blisters.

At the end of the day, it’s best to keep them closed and treat them at home. But that’s not always possible. The risk is small, but you don’t want them getting infected on the trail.

Blisters can be painful to walk on and they might just end up popping on their own.

If they are likely to pop on their own in a dirty, sweaty sock, then best to do it yourself and control the cleanliness.

The first step is to see if you can keep it intact but pad around it.

Pad around the blister

For smaller blisters you might be able to walk on it with a bit of padding

Cut a piece of moleskin or molefoam with a hole it in for the blister, leaving a bit of space around it. Cover with another piece of moleskin for padding. Cover the whole thing with medical tape, Leukotape or duct tape. BandAid and Second Skin also have blister pads that might work for you.

See how it feels to walk in it.

If it’s just too painful to walk on, it might be one you have to pop. Heel blisters are a tough spot to hike on.

Popping and Cleaning

If all else fails and you can’t walk on it then draining and cleaning is your best bet.

It’s best to pop and clean in a controlled environment than a sweaty, dirty sock.

1. Clean area with alcohol, antiseptic wipe, or soap and water
2. Sterilize needle, knife or pin with fire, alcohol or boiling water
3. Make small hole in bottom and push fluid out. Try to keep the top in place to prevent infection and sensitive skin covered. Make the hole big enough that it won’t close right away.
4. Clean with antibiotic ointment like Polysporin and dress like a would with gauze or bandaid
5. Add tape or moleskin if padding needed. Don’t put sticky tape right on blister as it will rip the skin off. You can cut molefoam or moleskin in donut for popped blister too. Add antibiotic ointment in the donut if you like.

Keep an eye on it and keep it clean. Redness, pain, puss, or red streaks means its infected and needs to be addressed asap.

Blister First Aid Checklist

So we’ve gone through all the steps to prevent those blisters and treat them if you do get one. That included a few things. Here’s a list of the things that were used:

• Moleskin or molefoam
• duct tape (wrap around something clean)
• multi-tool with scissors, tweezers and small knife
• Medical tape, KT tape or Leukotape
• Bandaids (waterproof are stickier)
• Small folding scissors
• Alcohol wipes or soap
• Polysporin
• Sewing needle
• Gauze or Blister bandages
• Optional
  • Nail clippers
  • Anti-chafing balm

Experiment with what you like to use and works best on your feet and boots.

Out on the trail, it’s nice to have blister stuff accessible to it’s easy to address hotspots quickly without emptying your entire bag.

Beware of these methods

Some of the methods to prevent blisters above just aren’t going to work for everyone. You’ll need to experiment.

Some methods just don’t work as well.

Putting deodorant all over your feet. Deodorant is likely just going to irritate your feet.

Using foot powder. Some people recommend it but we’ve seen comments about foot powder clumping and creating more blister issues.

Comment your Tips!

Got any blister tips, used one of these before with success or failure?

Got a disaster story with something NOT to use?

We’d love to see your comment below?

The post How to Prevent Painful Blisters (and Treat Them Too) first appeared on Pack & Trail.

Since the 80s there has been a slow and steady trend to lighter, more flexible hiking footwear. Hikers like Chris Townsend and Andrew Skurka that have hiked thousands of kilometers around the world have switched to trail runners for hiking in 3 season conditions.

Hiking shoes and trail runners are now two other great options for hiking that are lighter, more flexible and less expensive than hiking boots.

So should you always wear trail runners for hiking now? Or stick with hiking boots?

It depends.

The Spectrum of Hiking Boots, Hiking Shoes and Trail Runners

Hiking footwear all exists on a spectrum of weight, flexibility and cost. At one end is the heavy, specialist, expensive mountaineering boots. Moving down to the lighter options is hiking shoes in the middle being lighter, more flexible and less expensive. On the other end of weight and flexibility is trail runners. And if you really want to go far enough, you can get into sandals you can hike in as well.

When choosing footwear for a hike, pick the lightest type that you are comfortable with for the trip.

Terrain on hiking trips come in all shapes and sizes. Which is good because footwear does as well. What might make sense on a weekend hiking on a groomed trail might not with a week-long backcountry tip in rough alpine or bushwhacking through an unknown area.

Start from the lightest end of the spectrum and work your way back until you’re comfortable. This implies having multiple options as well. If you want to skip ahead to recommendations for beginners go to the end of the article.

But first, let’s dig into what hiking boots, hiking shoes and trail runners actually are and when and when you might use them.

What is a Hiking Boot?

Hiking boots are usually taller boots made of thicker leather or synthetic materials. They have laces up past the ankle on the boot. The soles are thick and durable with deep lugs on them. They usually have some sort of shank, or stiffener, that runs part or all of the way from heel to toe in the midsole, or in between the outer sole and your foot.

Hiking boots weigh anywhere from 1000 grams (35 ounces) per pair up to over 1300 grams (48 ounces). They can be waterproof or not.

Cost ranges between $100 and $500 depending on the size, materials and brand. More expensive models tend to be more specific to mountaineering or hunting.

Hiking boots are durable with good traction and ankle protection. They have a stiff and stable midsole which is good for carrying heavy loads. But all that durability and stiffness comes at a cost: weight.

What is a Hiking Shoe?

Hiking shoes are a cross between hiking boots and trail runners. They are low cut with regular laces but still have some of the durability and stability from being built like a hiking boot. They can be waterproof or not.

What is a Trail Runner?

Trail runners are lightweight running shoes with good traction for the trail. They can fit well right out of the box. They’re very flexible making it easy to move quickly on the trail.

Compared to hiking boots and hiking shoes they are lighter, more flexible, more breathable and can be more comfortable. They can be waterproof or not.

A lighter pack is easier on your feet

The more weight you are carrying the harder it is on your feet. Be kind to your feet and lighten the load on your back.

Take as little as possible on your hike, while staying safe and having a good time.

When you upgrade your gear, look for places when you can save weight. Newer jackets will weigh less. Newer backpacks will weigh less. Newer sleeping bags will weigh less. Gear that weighs less usually costs more as well so there’s always that budget to balance too.

Waterproof or not?

Hiking boots, shoes and trail runners often come with waterproof versions or not.

Waterproof means there is a waterproof membrane built into the boot or shoe to keep the water out. Most of the membranes say they’re breathable as well meaning the sweat your foot produces should escape out keeping your foot dry. This rarely happens in practice.

Most of the time sweat can’t escape from boots or can’t escape fast enough so your feet end up sweating. Moisture can cause blisters. Not good.

Where this can help though is in cold conditions. The little bit of sweat inside might be better than the cold snow on the outside.

Best Combination to Start

These are just our recommendations if you don’t know where to start. With all the comparisons above, you should have a pretty good idea of what each of the shoe types get you.

For just hiking: Hiking shoes

If you just want to hike, hiking shoes offer a good combination of heavier, more durable hiking boots and lighter, flexible trail runners.

They get you the benefits of a lighter shoe when you’re hiking but last longer than trail runners.

If you want to run in them as well then that’s slightly different case.

For hiking and running: Trail runners

If you want to run trails as well, then just getting trail runners lets you do both.

Trail runners don’t work well for carrying heavy packs much over 40 pounds so factor that into your plans. If you are only carrying a day pack or a lighter multi-day pack

Best Footwear Overall

3 season adventures: Trail runners

If you don’t get snow where you hike or only head out in spring, summer and fall, then you can probably get away with just trail runners. They’ll be lighter and more breathable than hiking boots and shoes, giving you more energy and speed on the trail.

4 season adventures: Hiking boots and trail runners

If you do enjoy the 4-season kind of adventure, then this is wear hiking boots can come in handy. The height, waterproofing and traction of hiking boots really come in handy.

At the end of the day, what you pick for hiking footwear is up to you. Comfort is the most important thing when sorting out what you’re going to hike in. When possible lean to the lighter weight options and you’ll be happier on the trail.

The post Hiking Boots vs Shoes: What do you need to hike? first appeared on Pack & Trail.

Trail runners work very well for hiking. They are lightweight, comfortable, breathable and less expensive. But there are a couple things to watch out for.

We’ll compare trail runners to hiking boots in this article but most of these arguments apply to hiking shoes as well.

Advantages to hiking in trail runners

Lighter

Trail runners are lighter than hiking boots. They’re meant for running so they have lighter soles and mesh uppers. They don’t have the tall ankles and often don’t have waterproof materials.

Lightweight trail runners are around 300 to 350 grams. The Altra Lone Peak 5 weighs 318 grams (11.1 oz), and the La Sportiva Bushido II weighs 298 grams (10.5 oz).

Larger hiking boots like the Tecnica Forge GTX weighs 595 grams (21 oz) or the Salomon X Ultra Mid 4 weighs 429 grams (15.1 oz). The thicker sole, beefier materials, waterproof membranes and taller ankles, all add 100 to 300 grams.

Cooler

Since trail runners are often mesh they are cooler than water resistant or waterproof hiking boots. Air can move in and out of the shoes keeping your feet dry and comfortable.

Fewer blisters

Lighter and more flexible materials give a closer fit with trail runners. Often you can hike with them right out of the box. An easier fit combined with good airflow through the mesh leads to less blisters from friction or sweaty feet.

More comfortable out of the box

Compared to larger, stiffer hiking boots, trail runners don’t need as much break-in time. Some people find they can just take them out of the box and go hiking

Less expensive

Trail runners are usually less expensive than hiking boots. They use less material and often have less structure and rigid parts to them.

From our examples above the Altra Lone Peak 5 trail runners come in at $175 CAD ($130 USD). And the La Sportiva Bushido II comes in at $160 CAD ($130 USD).

For boots, the lightweight Salomon X Ultra Mid 4 usually run $199 CAD ($165 USD) and the larger heat-moldable Tecnica Forge GTX is around $350 CAD ($270 USD).

Disadvantages to hiking in trail runners

Trail runners aren’t always rainbows and unicorns though. There are some downsides to them.

Not waterproof

There’s a caveat to this one. Many trail runners are mesh and very breathable. The increased airflow is more comfortable. Your feet dry faster after sweating or walking through rivers.

That said, most companies offer waterproof versions of some of their trail runners. They have the same waterproof membrane as in hiking boots. They’ll have the same downsides as a waterproof boot as well: less breathable, a bit more expensive, a bit heavier.

Less durable

Trail runners are not built to last as long as a hiking boot. If they were, they’d be as heavy as a hiking boot. Thru-hikers will go through multiple pairs of trail runners over months of hiking. For most the comfort, ease of movement and lack of blisters is worth it.

See Trail runners vs hiking boots below for an option that’s more durable but lighter weight than a hiking boot.

Less ankle protection

Boots have hiker ankles than trail runners. For bushwhacking or places that put your ankles at risk, consider taller boots. There’s still the comfort and weight to consider.

Trail runners vs hiking shoes

Hiking shoes are like smaller, lighter hiking boots. They have low ankles like a trail runner but tend to be a bit more durable, stiff and waterproof like a hiking boot.

They make for a good compromise between trail runners and hiking boots for when you need something a bit more rigid and durable but don’t want to lug the weight of a boot around.

A note on stability and stiffness

Hiking boots are stiffer in the midsole than trail runners. They often have a rigid shank in the sole that keeps the sole from bending too. They have stiff ankles that run higher up your leg.

This rigidity in the boots may help tired legs carry a big backpack but they’re also contributing to those tired legs. Lighter trail runners or shoes don’t weigh as much leaving some energy in your legs. It’s harder to feel the ground with stiff boot soles making foot placement more difficult.

If you have ankle issues, the extra stability might be worth the weight. For us, we definitely prefer the lighter weight and flexibility of the trail runners.

Can you always hike in trail runners?

If you’re always hiking in warmer weather then certainly trail runners are going to be more comfortable.

When the water gets wet and cool or snowy, then you have a choice to make. Trail runners can get through a bit of rain here and there and dry out. Days in the snow or hard rain will be uncomfortable.

The trick is to pick the features of a trail runner or a boot for the trail and weather conditions. It becomes another option to lighten the load when it’s warm or not as wet just like you’d take a warmer sleeping bag and 4-season tent out in the winter.

Happy trail running hiking!

The post Can You Hike in Trail Runners? first appeared on Pack & Trail.

If a boot has a waterproof membrane inside then it should be waterproof for a long time.

If a boot is some kind of leather without a waterproof membrane then it will very water resistant.

If a boot is just fabric or mesh, then it is not waterproof.

These same rules apply to hiking shoes and trail runners. They can have a waterproof membrane, be water-resistant leather or open fabric.

If waterproof boots and shoes keep all the rain and puddles out, why would you want mesh? There is a very good reason to have a non-waterproof shoe.

But first: does waterproofing actually last?

How do waterproof boots work?

To answer that let’s look at how waterproof boots work.

Waterproof boots start with the waterproof membrane. Gore-Tex, eVent, Merrell’s M-Select DRY and Oboz BDry are all different kinds of waterproof membrane. They’re soft, flexible materials that have gone through very high-tech and proprietary processes to let sweat through but keep water out.

This boot of waterproof material is made into a boot shape with a soft liner on the inside. The rest of the boot materials are added to the outside like the fabric or leather uppers, the laces and the sole.

A chemical Durable Water Repellency (DWR) is added to the outside which makes water bead. If water soaks into the outside of the boot then air can’t flow through it, preventing any sweat and moisture from breathing out through the waterproof membrane.

This DWR coating comes from the factory but eventually wears on. Nikwax and other companies have products to wash or spray the DWR layer back on. Waterproof jackets and pants work the same and also have a DWR coating.

Does waterproofing last forever?

Waterproof membranes don’t last forever.

Hiking boots get a lot of abuse. They hit the ground with every step hiking. They get dirty and wet a lot. They bend near the toes and other places.

Eventually dirt wears its way through the outer fabric and into the waterproof membrane. Dirt and sand act like sandpaper overtime when the boot moves. That’s why it’s important to clean your boots. You might not care there’s a bit of mud on there, but it might mean years of use on your boots.

Once dirt’s in the membrane, it can clog the little tiny holes called pours that let sweat breathe or can tear larger holes and let water in from the outside.

Waterproof vs breathable

Everyone has their own preference of waterproof versus breathable boots and shoes but the preference has slowly changed over time. If you saw someone hiking in wet conditions in trail runners in the 1980s, you might think they didn’t know what they were doing. Now if see someone hiking long distances or in somewhat wet conditions, they might be wearing lightweight breathable trail runners.

Non-waterproof shoes and boots are lighter, more comfortable to hike in and don’t cost as much. Waterproof versions of shoes and boots adds a couple ounces and $30 to $80.

Air easily flows in and out of non-waterproof shoes resulting in more comfortable and cooler feet. Even if they do get wet, they dry faster than waterproof versions.

Waterproof membranes aren’t perfect. The layer that keeps rain out can also traps moisture in. They work better in cold and mild temperatures to push moisture out. In warmer locations and weather, that moisture sits in your boots. Sweaty feet can lead to blisters.

We try to err on the side of lighter weight and more breathable for most hikes but that’s going to be very uncomfortable in some weather. Taller, waterproof boots are much more comfortable in cool wet and snowy conditions. The trade-off of less breathability likely will be more appreciated when your feet will be soaked the whole time.

River crossings

Trails with many river crossings are a bit of a special case for choosing footwear.

Will you be crossing in your waterproof hiking boots, non-waterproof shoes or other footwear you have for crossing like sandals or watershoes?

Waterproof boots are only waterproof up to the gusset in the tongue. The gusset is the fabric that connects to the tongue to the rest of the boot. If water gets up past that, it’s just going to pour in. Wet foot. Long dry times.

Non-waterproof shoes will dry faster if you just cruise right through the river. Your feet will certainly get wet but will dry faster than a waterproof boot.

Another option is bringing a small lightweight shoe for camp and water crossings like sandal or watershoe. Change into these shoes for crossing and then back into your dry hiking shoes after. A small towel or t-shirt works well for drying your feet off before donning hiking boots.

Do you need waterproof boots?

Smaller, non-waterproof shoes will be lighter on your feet and more breathable in warmer conditions.

That said, cold, wet and snowy conditions are much more comfortable in taller, waterproof boots.

So do you buy tall hiking boots or lightweight shoes?

Both.

If you can, a combination of lightweight shoes and waterproof boots will let you tackle any trail and any weather with the best tool for your feet.

If you can only afford one, then it will depend on what you like doing most.

Day hikes during warm weather? Get a lightweight shoe.

Long wet hikes? A waterproof hiking boot. Most brands have ‘Mid’ style hiking boots which are shorter but still waterproof. They’ll be smaller and lighter than the taller versions.

There’s always going to be a spectrum of what you can wear on a hike. Some people will tend to the taller boots, and some will tend to the smaller, lighter shoes.

At the end of the day it’s entirely up to you what you pick but this article hopefully gave you some information about all the options so you can test them out for yourself.

The post Wet Feet or Not: Are Hiking Boots Waterproof? first appeared on Pack & Trail.

So why are we trying to clean them?

First, why you’ll be happy you cleaned your boots and then how to actually clean them.

Why clean hiking boots?

Boots last longer when you clean them

They might not look dirty from the outside but all that dirt, grit and sand from the trail gets into the creases. Every step you take forces it deeper, grinding like sandpaper on the leather, fabric and waterproof membrane in the boot.

Rub sandpaper on anything long enough and it’ll stop working. The leather breaks down, the fabric will start to fray and holes appear in the waterproof membrane.

On top of that, mud sucks moisture from leather as it dries. That leaves your leather boots less pliable with weaker creases.

Hiking boots can be expensive. The longer we can keep them in good working order the more money in your pocket to spend on other hiking gear. And keep those boots out of the landfill.

Ideally, boots are cleaned every hike but that doesn’t mean a long involved process. Just banging your boots together outside or quickly brushing off the dirt before putting them away is often enough.

A quick pass through some wet grass or puddles at the end of a hike might be enough to get them all clean.

If those boots are proper dirty though, they’ll need a good clean. Here’s how.

What do you need to clean boots?

You don’t need much to clean a pair of boots:

• boot brush, old vegetable brush or old toothbrush
• boot cleaner, saddle soap, or very mild solution of dishwashing soap and water
• A sink or tub of warm water

Make sure that the boot cleaner is ok for your boots. Some are meant for leather (smooth feel to it), suede or nubuck (leather with a fuzzy feel), or fabric/synthetic (not either kind of leather).

If you are using soap, don’t use bar soap or detergents. It can be harmful to the leather and waterproof membranes.

How to clean the uppers

The outside of hiking boots is mostly just the soles (rubber part on the bottom) and the uppers (rest of the boot on the top around the laces).

There’s also the laces, inside of the boot and insoles, but we’ll get to those below.

First pass:

1. bang the boots together, knocking off the big chunks.
2. Tip upside down and shake out any crud inside
3. Brush off all the dust and dirt

You might be done at this point. The boots might not be very dirty. Skip ahead to storing your boots.

If they still look like you just walked off a trail that got 50mm of rain:

1. Remove laces and insoles
2. Put a hand towel or paper towel inside to keep it dry
3. Rinse off with warm water in the tub or sink. Try to keep big chunks or rocks out of the drain.
4. Wash with boot cleaner like Nikwax Footwear Cleaning Gel if they’re still dirty or stained.
5. Rinse with clean water

When washing, make sure to get into the cracks and folds, especially around where the laces were.

If there’s any mold on your boots, try a washing with a rinse of 20% vinegar and 80%.

Lastly, give the laces a wash if they’re muddy.

And never put boots through the washing machine. That’ll likely wreck your boots (and possibly the washing machine too).

Cleaning outsoles

Since the outsoles are usually very durable rubber, it doesn’t do any damage to leave them muddy but you won’t get as much traction if they’re packed full of stuff from the trail. And chances are if the outsoles are dirty the uppers are too.

If you like to hike in many different areas, there’s a chance you can bring an invasive plant species from one area to another.

Cleaning the outsoles is easy, just brush off all the dirt. Clean out the rocks if there are any stuck. Hose off what’s left. If there is any stubborn mud left a sock in a tub should loosen it up.

Cleaning inside

The insides of hiking boots don’t get as dirty as the outsides but they still need a wipe now and then. If they did get a full mud bath you might need to fill with water, soak and wipe out.

For the most part, you can use a sponge or a damp clothe and wipe out the insides. Salty sweat deposits can build up over time and work their way into the waterproof membrane.

If they still smell a bit, some shoe odour spray can help. Take the insoles out and wipe them down too. A bit of baking soda can help with smell on the insoles.

Waterproofing

All hiking boots will have a DWR or Durable Water Repellency coating on them from the factory. This coating helps water bead off your boots, keeping them cleaner and preventing water from soaking into the outer laters. When water soaks into the outer layers moisture can’t escape from the inside.

Technically, the DWR coating isn’t the ‘waterproof’ layer, the leather or the waterproof membrane is that, but the coating helps keep things working properly.

So when your boots stop beading water off, it’s time to re-waterproof or apply more of the DWR coating. Products like Nikwax Fabric and Leather Proof spray onto the boots when they’re wet from cleaning and restore the beading coating.

For more instructions see our guide on how to re-waterproof boots.

Drying boots

Once you’ve cleaned and waterproofed your boots again, it’s time to let them dry.

Keep the insoles and laces separate and make sure they’re dry before putting back in. Open up the tongues so you’re not trapping anything inside.

Set your boots in a well-ventilated area with a stable temperature about room temperature. Make sure they are not put beside a hot heat source like the sun, a heater, fire or stove. This can damage the leather, waterproof membrane and shape of the soles.

To dry a bit faster, point a regular fan at them or put them on a boot dryer. Having dry paper towel or hand towels stuffed inside can help. Make sure to rotate out with dry ones. These are really the only ways to speed up drying safely. It can take a couple days.

Storing boots

Try and store your boots in a room-temperature, well ventilated area. Keep them out of airtight containers.

Big temperature swings or a lot of moisture can damage the adhesives or the fabrics. Attics or car trunks that will get extremely hot or cold aren’t the best places for boots.

Conditioning boots

Once your boots are all clean, you might want to condition the leather. For fabric boots, this step doesn’t apply.

Leather can dry and crack over time and just like our skin, needs to be moisturized.

Nikwax Conditioner for Leather works well. A small amount is enough to moisturize the boots but not make them too soft and supple. We still need that structure to keep us upright hiking!

Comments

What are your best tips for cleaning and keep your boots and good working order? Do you have any boots that have lasted a long time? How do you take care of them? Share your best tips in the comments below.

The post How to Clean Hiking Boots first appeared on Pack & Trail.

Don’t.

Hiking boots big and small should be eased onto the trail and broken in before you throw on the pack and do multiple days with them.

And if you don’t? Blisters.

Blisters are no fun. I hit the trail a few years ago for a warm hike with about 1500 metres (5000 ft) of elevation. I spent a few weeks prior doing short hikes in some heavier backpacking boots and wanted to use them on this 3 day hike to see how they felt.

But I didn’t break them in enough. I wanted to finish the hike but it cost me. Blisters the sizes of loonies on both heels. The hike was beautiful but it hurt.

You don’t need to do this.

Let’s walk through a good method of breaking in boots so you don’t have to go through this pain.

What does ‘breaking in’ a boot mean?

Hiking boots are all built with standard foot molds called a last. Each company uses a different last and they can be different between boots or years of boots from the same company.

Clearly that last or mold isn’t exactly the same as your foot. This can be a problem. Some people have generic feet and put on a hiking boot and it fits. For the rest of us, a fit can be close but it’s still not our foot.

We need to soften the materials in the boots and form them to our foot. We can do this with heat and moisture.

At the end of the process, we’ll get a boot that fits much closer to each little dent and bump on your feet than what you get from the store.

How long does it take to break boots in?

Breaking in boots can take a few weeks. It all depends on how much time you spend in them.

Larger, heavier, leather boots might be 2 to 4 weeks or more. Smaller, lighter, synthetic boots and shoes might just need a few days of wearing them.

There aren’t any shortcuts. The process just takes time on your feet in the boots and there aren’t any ways around it.

The more time you spend in the boots while breaking them in the faster the process will go.

If you don’t have much time before your hike, opt for something lighter and more flexible as long as it fits.

Let’s step into the 4 step process of breaking in boots.

Step 1: Buy boots that fit well

While not exactly breaking in boots, buying a boot that fits well will making breaking in your boots even possible. Here are a few tips to do that.

Wear your hiking socks

When buying boots at the store, wear the socks you’d like to wear hiking. How thick they are will affect how hiking boots and shoes feel.

Some socks wick moisture away from your feet faster. You’ll be able to feel how well they wick with each boot.

Wear them in the shop

Spend as long as you can in the boots at the store. If you are at home, then you can have as long as you like. But even at the store, wear them around while you shop so you get a better feel for any pinch points or hot spots.

Climb some rock

Some stores will have a rocky hill or platform you can climb up with the boots to see how they feel. Any sort of incline or stairs will highlight weird bending in the boots or if your heel slips. Try going down the incline making sure your toes aren’t bashing into the end.

Try lacing differently

Try lacing differently to fix any issues you feel in the store. If that doesn’t work, it’s time for a different pair.

Add some weight

Once a pair feels good walking around for a while, put your backpack with some weight on if you brought it, or ask for one. A good outdoor store will have lots of backpacks with weight like climbing ropes in it. More weight will make the boots feel different.

Test boots with swollen feet

Try to shop near the end of the day when you’ve been on your feet all day. They will swell a bit walking around a lot and will be shaped and sized more like how your feet will be walking on the trail.

If everything feels good walking around in the store with your socks carrying some weight on an incline, it’s time to wear them around the house.

Step 2: Wear Around the House

You’ve bought some nice hiking boots or shoes that feel great in the store. Now it’s time to wear them around the house for a week or 2.

Wear around the house

Wear the boots around the house as much as you can. This helps with 2 things.

Wearing around the house keeps your feet in the boots for longer while you do your cleaning, cooking and other chores.

Keeping the boots in the house also keeps them clean and dry in case you need to return them. Most stores offer a return policy and will exchange boots and shoes no problem if you just wore them in the house.

Try to wear them all day long like you would your hiking boots.

Try relacing, with different socks or different insoles if you have any issues. If you can’t get past some hot spots or paint points, take them back to the store for suggestions or to try a different pair.

Once they feel good, it’s time to go outside.

Wear for errands

Take the boots out for all your errands, shopping and work if you can. Try different types of terrain like side hills, includes and stairs.

Make sure you have your hiking socks on still (maybe wash them once in a while too).

If everything still feels good it’s time to hike!

Step 3: Wear on Short Hikes

Now it’s time to hike.

It’s not time for a multi-day hike with 20 kilometers a day but it is time to get on the dirt.

Find varied terrain

Pick some nice short hikes with a light pack and get out on the trails. Find all the different terrain you can, rocks, dirt, inclines, declines and slippery surfaces.

Same as the steps above, if they don’t feel right anywhere, stop, adjust the lacing, empty any debris and then keep going.

We don’t want to get blisters at this point and we want to break in our feet a bit too.

Bring supplies and a back up plan

With your testing hikes you might want to bring backup shoes to help get out if something goes sideways. A blister won’t stop you from hiking but they are certainly uncomfortable.

Bring sports tape like Leukotape to tape up hotspots until your feet are a bit tougher. Vaseline or Body Glide are good lubricants that can help alleviate a hotspot until you get home. Gold Bond powder or something similar can help dry out moist feet if the moisture is causing issues.

Add some weight

Just as in the store, start adding more weight, slowly working up to your hiking weight you’d take on a trip. Don’t throw on 40 pounds right away but work up to it slowly adding distance and weight. We’re getting your feet and body used to this as well if they aren’t.

Get wet

Boots will get wet on the trail so it’s time we try that to see how things go. Get your boots soaked and do some hiking. This will let you test the waterproofing as well as see how your boots feel wet. Adding moisture to the boot materials will let them bend and form to your feet better.

Work up to 2/3 hiking distance

Work up to near your actual hiking distance you’d like to do each day. We don’t want to jump straight from 5 kilometer testing hikes up to 20 kilometer trail days.

Break in your feet

Part of this process is breaking in your feet. If you haven’t hiked in boots for a while or ever, your feet won’t be as tough as they need to be for boots. Building up those callusses from hiking a lot will help prevent blisters. Spend as much time barefoot as you can, especially in rough places like sand. Going straight from the couch to long hikes may hurt.

If you have successfully completed all your testing and sorted any issues you have with the boots, it’s time to do your trip!

Step 4: Do your Hike

Now it’s time to do your hike!

Use what you’ve learned with all your breaking in and hit the trails. You might need to take sports tape, Body Glide or Gold Bond with you on the hike to make sure you don’t get blisters. For your first few larger hikes you might want to take them just in case.

What not to do to break in hiking boots

There are far more incorrect ways to break in boots than correct ones. Some of them can actually harm your boots.

Some methods that don’t work:

• don’t freeze them
• take a hairdryer to them
• pee on them

As long as you follow the steps above and don’t try any of these odd hacks, you should be on the trail in no time.

The post How to Break in Hiking Boots first appeared on Pack & Trail.

It’s not what makes it actually waterproof but it helps. The coating is DWR or Durable Water Repellency. This is a creme or a spray coating that makes water bead off, kind of like that coating you can get on the windshield of your car.

Beading the water off helps do 2 things. First, it keeps your boots drier! Beading gets the water off before it has a chance to soak in and getting your feet wet.

Secondly, getting the water off the boots before it soaks in prevents ‘wet out’. Boots need to breathe to get moisture like sweat out of the boot and away from your feet. If the outer layer of your boot is soaked with water, it can’t breathe and can’t let that moisture out. Your feet stay sweaty which can lead to blisters.

Over time to the DWR starts to wear off. The water doesn’t bead off any more and soaks into the outer layer of the boot. If the water isn’t beading, the boot isn’t breathing.

Time to re-waterproof those boots.

One last thing before we get into the process. ‘Re-waterproofing’ boots doesn’t actually make them ‘waterproof’ any more. The leather or Gore-Tex membrane makes them waterproof. The DWR coating helps the water bead off, not soaking in. If the waterproof membrane is shot, then you can help the water bead off but it will still get inside eventually.

Choose waterproofing

Step 1: Figure out what kind of waterproofing spray, creme or wax you need. It depends on the kind of boot you have.

Full-grain leather is the smooth, shiny ‘leather’ look on the outside of the boot. Leather is naturally very water and abrasion resistant. You can use something like Nikwax Waterproofing Wax Liquid for Leather.

Nubuck or Suede is the brushed leather look. Nubuck is a brushed full-thickness leather while suede is brushed but a thinner split-grain thickness. Nikwax Nubuck & Suede Proof works well on this kind of leather. Waterproofers can change the colour of Nubuck or Suede so test a small patch before doing the whole boot.

Synthetic is anything man-made in a boot, often nylon or polyester, but can be mixed with leather. They often have a Gore-Tex waterproof membrane inside or something similar. Nikwax Fabric and Leather Proof is a good choice here. Don’t use wax, grease or oil on Gore-Tex boots.

Now that you’ve sorted which kind of boots you have and what kind of waterproofer you need, it’s time to clean your boots.

Clean boots

Waterproofing works best on clean, damp boots. For more details see our guide to how to clean hiking boots.

Here’s the short story:

1. Remove laces
2. Brush off the dust and dirt
3. Rinse with clean water
4. Wash with Nikwax Footwear Cleaning Gel if they are really dirty

Sometimes they need a soak they’re so dirty. Don’t soak nubuck. It will soften the leather too much.

Apply Waterproofing

Right after cleaning, when the boots are wet is the best time to put the waterproofer on.

Follow the instructions on the container of the waterproofer but usually it goes like this:

1. Apply all over in a well ventilated area or outside. Spray from 6 inches away.
2. Let sit for a few minutes
3. Wipe off excess
4. Let boots dry

If the boots aren’t wet enough wrap in a wet towel and put in tub or sink.

Drying your boots

Now that they are clean and waterproofed, it’s time to dry.

Let them dry in a room temperature place with low humidity.

Don’t put them by anything warm like a wood stove or radiator. If you want to speed up the process put them in front of a fan or on a boot dryer.

If the inside is wet, stuff some paper towel or hand towel inside.

Storing your boots

Store your boots where the temperature is stable and doesn’t get too hot or cold. Outside, in the trunk of your car or beside the wood stove are not good places to store boots.

How often should you re-waterproof?

Re-waterproof as often as you like but once a year is a good minimum.

If you are using them heavily you will have to apply more than that. Watch the beading on the boots and re-apply when needed. Before big trips is a good time for a clean and waterproofing.

Boots work better and last longer if you keep them clean, so clean often.

Does re-waterproofing help when water goes over the top of the boots?

Nope. Nothing will help when the water in a stream or puddle is over the top of your boots. Gaiters will keep mud and snow out and water during a quick dunk but eventually that water is getting in if it’s higher than the top of your boots.

Comments

Let’s hear your comments below.

What do you use to re-waterproof your boots? How often do you do it?

The post How to Re-waterproof Hiking Boots first appeared on Pack & Trail.