DJI has become a world leader in drones and mobile camera technology. They have pushed the limits of size and weight of drones, gimbals, and microphones.

A major factor in the success of the all DJI products are the batteries. Without strong batteries the gimbals, drones and microphones are tough to use.

Out camping, on road trips, and making content, all these batteries need to be charged. With the Power 1000 and Power 500, DJI are now making the power station, an electrical home base if you will, to reset and charge everything back up.

Building on the success and technology of the Power 500 and 1000 launched in 2024, DJI just released the Power 1000 Mini. Same total 1008 wH capacity as the Power 1000 but in half the size.

DJI says the Power 1000 Mini ‘builds on more than 15 years of dedicated research and development in battery innovation.’

‘With more than 700 battery patents and more than 10 million users globally, DJI batteries have been validated through tens of billions of charging and discharging cycles for drones, cameras, gimbals, microphones, portable power stations, and beyond.’ I never think of DJI has a battery company as well but they have made more than a few.

The Power 1000 Mini is focused is on efficiently charging smaller items like drones, laptops, cameras, and phones. Those aren’t the only things it can power. Anything with AC, USB, or SDC cords or adapters up to the 1000 watt max will charge.

Let’s have a look at the rest of the specs and our testing results.

What’s in the box?

• POWER 1000 Mini power station
• Quick start guide
• Safety guidelines
• AC charge cable
• SDC car port cable
• SDC MC4 solar panel cable

Power 1000 Mini Specs

The Power 1000 Mini is a compact rectangle with a handle on one end and all the ports on the other. All the ports, screen, and light are on one end so you don’t have to go digging around the back to plug anything in.

The top is flat and the handle is flush with the top so it’s easy to pack around. The handle has a grippy material on it. It’s well-placed so it’s easy to pick up one-handed.

Ports and Output

The Power 1000 Mini has a good selection of ports.

• 2 USB-A
• 1 USB-C
• 1 retractable cable USB-C cable (3 feet)
• 4 AC (1 grounded)
• 1 SDC
• 1 AC input

The retractable 100 watt USB-C cord is super convenient for charging everything these days and I can’t lose it. A magnet keeps the end flush with the front panel. I love having the built in cable. Most of what I charge now is USB-C.

90% of my charging is for USB devices. Between phones, tablets, headlamps, camp lights, drone batteries, camera batteries, speakers, laptops, and headphones, theres a lot to charge. The 2 USB-A ports and 2 USB-C ports are always full when we’re getting ready for a trip and at the campsite. I would gladly take more USB ports if they could add them.

The 2 USB-C ports share 150 watts between them. Each can go up to 100 watts if the other isn’t used.

The SDC port stands for Software Defined Charger and can be used with a bunch of other DJI cables. For input to charge the station, cables for the car accessory port or MC4 connectors for solar panels. For output, it has a DC car accessory port and fast charge adapters for many of the DJI drone batteries. If you need multiple SDC ports, the Power 1000 might be better with an SDC and SDC lite port.

The 4 AC ports are good for bigger devices. There’s only 1 with 3 prongs that’s grounded so keep that in mind. I’m rarely on AC so the USB is heavily used. We’ll run a projector or hair dryer on the AC on occasion. If you can run DC through the USB ports it’s more efficient but sometimes it’s not possible.

Charging

There’s 5 ways to charge the Power 1000 Mini.

• AC – Fast charge
• AC – Regular charge
• Solar (through SDC port)
• Car (through SDC port)
• 100 W built-in retractable USB-C cable

The easiest and fastest is the fast charge through the AC port. 800 watts is the max speed on fast charge charging 80% in 58 minutes and 100% in 75 minutes.

Regular charge works well too. Fast charging usually reduces the life of batteries a little quicker so if you want max lifespan, I’d go with regular charging.

There is a car port to SDC adapter available that can charge up to 400 watts as well. DJI says about 160 minutes to charge. I didn’t have one of these adapters to test.

The MPPT module can take up to 400 watts from solar so that would take a couple hours. I will be testing this more when we get some decent sun. Our Pacific Northwest sun isn’t doing much right now.

Screen

The screen is clear and doesn’t take up much space on the main panel. It’s bright and easy to see.

It shows:

• current charge in percent and bar chart
• how many hours power left for what’s plugged in
• input in watts
• output in watts
• Wifi
• Ports that are currently drawing power

A single press on the power button turns the screen off. It is fairly bright so it’s nice to turn off when sleeping. It doesn’t say anywhere the power draw of the screen but obviously it’s something so turning the screen off would save a bit.

Light

The light at the bottom turns on with one click, and then dims or brightens by holding it. It flashes at the brightest and dimmest. A double press turns on the SOS mode.

UPS

If you’re working during a storm and need equipment to keep running, you can use the Mini as a UPS or uninterruptible power supply. In 0.01 seconds it can switch over from AC power to battery power. That’s enough to keep most electronics from turning off and your computer running.

App

The app can control most of the functions on the Power 1000 Mini. After connecting it with Bluetooth and then wifi, it can turn any of the ports on or off individually.

The light can be turned on and off in the app as well.

It’s easy to see how much ower is left and how many watts are going in or out.

For settings, you can set or see a few things

• see internal temperature
• set discharge or recharge limits
• enable a low battery alarm.
• auto-enable AC output when it turns on
• set to recharge fast or slow
• set screen timeout
• set device timeout
• set ac timeout
• set temp units

DJI regularly updates the firmware to fix any bugs or issues they may have found. I had an update pending on mine when I started it up. I connected it to wifi and 10 minutes later it was all updated and had restarted.

Compared to the Power 500 and Power 1000

The Power 100 Mini sits between the Power 1000 and the Power 500 in terms of number of ports, total capacity, and max output.

Video Review

Final Thoughts

DJI know batteries. They’ve only made millions of them for all their drones, gimbals, cameras, and vacuums. Making a home base, a power station, to recharge them all seems like the logical next step. DJI’s more efficient power usage and SDC connections give them an advantage over other power stations, especially if you own any other DJI products.

I find the port selection in a sweet spot of compact size but useful ports. I could always go for more USB ports but that would be at the cost of AC ports I’m sure.

The compact size, flat top, and big handle on the back make it easy to move around. Power stations can get very heavy very quickly. I don’t want to be hauling more than I need to at the end of a long day exploring and packing.

The max output is a bit lower than other power stations but you take a big hit on size to get it. There will be some that need the higher max output for tools or applies but for those that need a lot of juice for lower power devices like phones, cameras and drones, it’s perfect.

Highly recommended

$649 CAD – $479 USD

Discount Codes

$40 USD off at the DJI Store: DJIPOWERCA02 (unit and combos)

$10 CAD off Amazon.ca: DJIPOWER6 (unit only)

More photos from testing

I received a free product sample from DJI to test for this review. This post contains affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you make a purchase through my links, at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products I believe in. All opinions are my own.

The post Portable Power: DJI Power 1000 Mini Review first appeared on Pack & Trail.

They’ve been making their own TPU soles for a long time now but have recently branched out with a collaboration with Vibram to make an even grippier sole.

The All-Terrain are very similar to the best-selling Blundstone Classics. Along with the sole there are a couple of key differences. We both them both to the test recently to see if what the differences felt like in the rock and mud.

We also have a quick comparison of the All-Terrain to the Classic and an in-depth review of the Classic.

Colors

The range of colors available for the All-Terrain is limited as it’s still relatively new. While the Classic has 16 available, the All-Terrain has 3. Rustic Brown tends to the be most popular and then a couple others.

The All-Terrain hasn’t been around for as long as the Classics so hopefully they will add more.

• Rustic Brown
• Rustic Black
• Black

Sole

The sole on the All-Terrain is a collaboration with Vibram, the TC4+ for wet terrain. The Classics have a more traditional blocky tread. The All-Terrain have more of a grid pattern that keeps more rubber on what you’re standing on. They flex when you move to shed anything that’s stuck in the tread.

The Vibram material feels a bit softer and gripper than the TPU on the Classics. This usually means they’ll stick better on surfaces, especially wet ones. A more extreme example is like the sole on running shoes vs hiking boots. Running shoes are softer and gripper. Hiking boots are harder and tend to last longer.

Fit

The fit is very similar to the Classics but a bit more snug. While the classics would be a bit taller and wider, The All-Terrain is a bit lower volume, more snug fit. It’s not a huge difference. I can wear both no problem but there is a little difference in the feel. If you have a lower volume foot, I would lean toward the All-Terrain.

The All-Terrain’s fit my low-medium volume feet fantastic. I don’t have high arches and they’re not particularly wide.

The heel has Blundstones XRD shock absorption system. The harder the force on the material in the heel, the more it hardens up. When the force is released, it goes back to being soft and squishy. They are firm and supportive all-day long and over hundreds of kilometers.

The insoles they come with are fairly flat which works well for my feet. If you need more of a stiff arch support it’s easy to swap out for different insoles.

Care

Blundstones don’t need a lot of care. They will last longer if you do though.

Keep them clean. Brush dirt off with a soft brush or damp cloth as often as possible and keep them in a dry, room temperature place. A gum eraser can get rid of the some of the scuffs.

A cream or spray will prevent the leather from drying out and cracking. Some will change the colour of the leather so test it out in a small spot. The All-Terrains are made with a nubuck leather, either waxed or polished. Make sure any spray or cream works on nubuck.

Never dry with direct heat like a fireplace or hairdryer. Just naturally in a dry place works well. Paper towel inside can absorb the moisture a little faster.

Stain and water repellent can be useful for the nubuck as well. The leather is water-resistant but not waterproof.

Compared to the Classics

The All-Terrains are very similar to the Classics. The fit is a bit more snug on the All-Terrains but not enough that you’d need a different size.

The sole on the All-Terrain’s is a more grippy sole from Vibram. If grip is a big concern, I’d lean towards the All-Terrain.

Thermal Version

The Winter Thermal All-Terrain is a winter or cold-weather version of the All-Terrain. It’s got 200 grams of Thinsulate insulation and a thicker sheepskin footbed. The leather upper is completely waterproof and seam-sealed.

Because of the insulation and thick footbed, there is a little less room inside the Thermal versions.

Final Thoughts

It’s exciting to see Blundstone working with other companies and improving their boots in different ways. Vibram absolutely knows shoe. They make over 40 million soles per year for 1000 different shoe companies.

The All-Terrains take the massive success of the Classics and tweak them with even better grip in the sole. The lugs aren’t as sharp as the Classics but there’s more rubber on the ground and it’s a softer, grippier material.

I won’t be able to wear through these boots any time soon as it will probably take a decade or more to wear them out but I love the Vibram soles I have on other shoes and hiking boots. They’ve easily outlasted the upper in all my other shoes.

If you have a higher volume foot or want more colors, the Classics are probably best. If you If you have a lower volume foot or need better grip, the All-Terrains are a good pick. Either way Blunstones are going to last you a long time.

The All-Terrains usually retail around $279.95 CAD and the Winter Thermal version for $319.95

The post Blundstone All-Terrain Review first appeared on Pack & Trail.

Today, we’ll be focusing more on what makes the Classics unique. What’s the difference between the them and the All-Terrain. Would you get the regular or the Winter Thermal version? How to get the right size with Blundstones Australian sizing.

Blundstones are the highest selling Chelsea boots in the world. The Classic in Rustic Brown is their best-selling model. I tested a Classic in Walnut, a dark polished brown leather and beige stitching.

We’ve also got a Classic vs All-Terrain comparison and an in-depth review of the All-Terrain.

Colors

The Classics are available in a ton of different colours.

• Claret
• Teak
• Vintage Zinc Brushed
• Sand Pebble
• Rustic Brown
• Clay
• Forest Nubuck
• Vintage Brown
• Brown
• Rustic Black
• Black
• Walnut
• Antique Brown
• Auburn
• Navy
• Antique Brown Brogue

Some of the styles are smoother and more dressy looking. Others come already looking distressed or a softer nubuck leather texture.

Sole

The sole on the classics is made from Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU). This is a very durable, strong, lightweight plastic. It’s hard enough to be very durable and supportive. It’s also soft enough to bend with your foot and grip wet or slippery surfaces.

The lugs are pretty deep giving good traction on any surfaces but there’s still a decent amount of rubber on the ground for wet and slippery surfaces. It’s a tough balance to strike but Blundstone does it well. The heel brake is fairly big and sharp, preventing slipping going down hills.

For working inside the soles are non-marking as well.

Fit

The Classics have more room inside them than the All-Terrains and Originals. They’re a medium volume, medium-wide fit. I have an average volume foot and they fit well. they feel good walking around but have a bit of room to put on bigger socks if I need to.

The sizing is in Australian so read the sizing carefully. I would try to get to a store to try on the exact model you want to see how they fit. Blundstone recommends 1 size down from Australian size for the US size for men, and 3 down for women. All the Blundstones are unisex.

Half sizes are only wider, not longer. So an 8 an an 8.5 are the same length, but the 8.5 is just a bit wider.

Blundstone say they will stretch over the arch of your foot over time. If you have high arches this is useful. They can be stretched a little by a cobbler as well. They shouldn’t stretch much, if at all, in length.

Care

I’m awful at taking care of my shoes. That’s part of the reason why I like Blundstones so much, I don’t really need to. They will last longer if you take care of them though.

Keep them clean. Brush dirt off with a soft brush or damp cloth as often as possible and keep them in a dry, room temperature place. Apply your spray or cream to maintain the leather. It will prevent cracking. Creams and sprays can change the colour of your boot so test it in a small spot if you aren’t sure.

A gum eraser can get rid of the some of the scuffs.

Most of the Classics are made with a nubuck leather, sometimes waxed or polished. Make sure any spray or cream works on nubuck.

Never dry with direct heat like a fireplace or hairdryer. Just naturally in a dry place works well. Paper towel inside can absorb the moisture a little faster.

Stain and water repellent can be useful for the nubuck as well. The leather is water-resistant anyways but not waterproof. The leather can loosen a bit and stretch if it’s wet. I’ve never had issues with these Classics or past Blundstones getting wet or stretching too much.

Compared to the All-Terrain

The Classics are very similar to the All-Terrain. We’ve got a full comparison here.

The main difference between the two is the sole. The Classics have a thick sole made from TPU with blocky lugs. The All-Terrain has a Vibram sole with more horizontally striped lugs. The Vibram sole is more focused on web and slippery surfaces.

The Classics are a little bit more room inside.

For colors, the Classics have 16 colours from soft brown to polished black to a deep red and navy. All-Terrain have 3 colours right now (Rustic Brown, Rustic Black and polished Black).

Thermal Version

The Classics also have a Winter Thermal version designed for colder seasons. Outside, they have fully waterproof leather and elastic with sealed seams. Inside, they have 200 grams of Thinsulate insulation and a sheepskin insole.

Check with sizing as they may fit tighter because of the insulation and thicker insole.

Final Thoughts

As I said in the intro, I’m very biased towards Blundstones. Past pairs have been extremely comfortable and durable. With my brief testing of the Classics, that has been the case so far as well. The best selling Chelsea boot from the most popular Chelsea boot brand says something.

They are my first choice out of everything I’ve got for all-around, do everything boot. You can work, hike, build, travel, and just about anything else in them.

The Classic TPU sole might not be quite as good as the Vibram sole on the All-Terrain for slippery surfaces but I found it easy to get over slick rock and logs out hiking. I’ve tried to hike with the Chisel Toe and there’s a huge difference. The Chisel Toe just don’t have the tread for bashing around in the woods.

The fit was medium wide, a little bigger inside than the All-Terrain’s. The arch is snug to start but that keeps your foot in place. The leather in the arch does relax over time. Length doesn’t really.

If you take some care in picking the right fit, you can’t go wrong with a Blundstone.

The Classics usually retail for around $239.95 CAD and the Thermal insulated version for $289.95.

The post Blundstone Classic Review first appeared on Pack & Trail.

I wanted to wear them to work so I got the Chisel Toe (Dress in the US). They were a bit stiff to start. Once they broke in they fit my feet like a glove. The soles were firm but soft enough to wear them all day no problem. I travelled in them. I walked hundreds of kilometers in them. They looked good so I could wear them anywhere.

I’ve worn them almost every day since.

What amazed me most was how durable they were. I wear through running shoes in a year, maybe 2. Hiking boots I was getting a little longer. Paying hundreds of dollars every year or 2 for shoes, I wanted them to last longer.

10 years later, I’ve finally retired my Chisel Toe’s. I’ve beat the daylights out of them. They’ve been in the water, snow, hiking, and riding motorcycles. Places where nice leather boots probably shouldn’t go. The leather is still going. The soles have finally given up wearing them almost every day for the last 10 years. Money very well spent.

Now it’s time for a new pair. But do I go with the Classic or the All-Terrain. In my perfect rainbow and unicorn world, I can wear a pair of Blundstones for everything I do. Ride the motorcycle to work, work in the office, walk at lunch, hike a trail in the mud after work, camp and fish on the weekends.

Can a single pair of boots do all that and not be shredded? Time for a test. Stay here for a comparison or see the in-depth review of the Classic and the All-Terrain.

Blundstone History

In the 1850s, John Blundstone and his sons make the 93 day journey from England to Hobart, Tasmania. They started sourcing local leathers and making high quality footwear.

During World War 1 and 2, the company made boots for Australian troops.

In the 50s they focused on workboots, their soles working in 350 C smelters. In the 60s the #500 was born. They’re still made today and have sold 25 million pairs worldwide.

In the late 1970s a team wearing boots made by Blundstone climb Everest. In the 80s another factory is opened in New Zealand and exports to Europe start. In the 90s safety boots for women and a kids range start.

The 2000s see one million pairs annually and in 2020 Blundstone is 150 years old. They still aim for rugged, all-around boots that work hard and last a long time.

Today there’s a whole line of Blundstones for year round work and adventure in mens, womens, safety and kids.

The Classics, and more recently All-Terrain, are popular styles in the line. But what’s the difference?

Classics vs the All-Terrains

The Classics and All-Terrains are quite similar but with a few important differences.

• Easy on/off with Blundstone pull tag
• Elastic side panels for snug fit and natural movement
• Rounded toe Chelsea boot styling
• .8mm leather and breathable synthetic liner
• Soles resistant to acid, organic fat and oil
• PU midsole
• SPS with XRD shock absorption in heel
• Removable footbeds.
• Sizes range from US 4 to US 14. Half sizes are only a bit wider.

A few quick specs and then we can get into the differences.

What is SPS and XRD?

A special polyurethane section in the heel is the XRD shock absorbing foam. It’s normally soft, squishy, and flexible. When a force is applied to it quickly hardens. The harder it’s pushed, the harder it goes. Kind of like a non-newtonian fluid (oobleck for any of the parents or teachers here).

It doesn’t stay hard, it returns to soft and squishy as fast as it got there. Landing hard as a step on concrete or jumping off a rock and it supports the fall and then quickly returns to it’s regular state. It’s so fast that you don’t even feel it happen.

Blundstone Classic

The Classics are an evolution of the #500 series originally launched in the 60s. The goal was a durable boot, for any environment, that would last forever.

The sole is a general thermo-polyurethane (TPU) sole with deep lugs. It’s designed to be long lasting and provide good traction on any surface.

On the back, the heel is double-stitched for extra durability. The stitching is exposed on the Classic.

Inside, they have a bit more volume and toe height than the All-Terrains.

Two pairs of Comfort EVA footbeds come with the Classic, one thicker than the other with a bit of XRD padding in the heel. Swapping the footbeds, or adding both together will give a different fit.

On top of some XRD in the footbed, there’s more built into the heel of the Classic. That’s where a lot of the weight and impact happens when you walk so there’s where the good padding is.

Classics are usually around $239.95 CAD. There is a thermal insulated version available for $289.95.

Blundstone All-Terrain

The All-Terrain launched in 2021. It’s a very similar rig to the Classic, mostly with a different sole.

The sole is a TC4+ Vibram sole, built for everything but excelling on wet, slippery surfaces. They work well from -15°C up to a staggering 300°C. The soles are built to have an increased amount of rubber on the ground but still self-release mud and rock as they bend.

The heel still has the durable double-stiching on the heel but it’s hidden, reducing the chance dirt and water gets in there.

Inside, the All-Terrain are slightly lower volume than the Classics. The toe height and arch are slightly more snug.

A set of Premium Comfort Lite are inside with a bit more cushion than the Comfort EVA footbeds in the classics. They still come with a second set regular Comfort EVA in case you need a second.

Just like in the Classic XRD shock absoprtion is built into the high impact area of the heel.

The All-Terrain cost a bit more than the Classics at $279.95 CAD. There is an insulated Winter Thermal version for $319.95 CAD.

Chisel Toe

I’ve been wearing the Chisel Toe almost daily for the last decade. They’re a dressier option than the All-Terrain or Classic.

The sole is smoother without as much tread on it and a more consistent line where it attaches to the leather. Great for travel, going to work or out for the night. The smoother sole isn’t as good for the trail.

The sole itself is thinner than the Classic or All-Terrain with less shock absorption. I could still walk and stand on them all day no problem so they were still plenty thick to protect my feet.

If you’re need tread for dirt or mud, stick with the Classics or All-Terrains. If you’re looking for something more dressing, the Chisel Toe are perfect.

Sizing

Blundstones run in Australian sizing. Make sure you’re looking at the US or Australian size when you go to order. I highly recommend trying them on in a store to see what fits properly.

The half-sizes aren’t longer, only wider. So an 8 and an 8.5 is the same length but the 8.5 is wider.

The Chisel Toe is longer than both the Classic and the All-Terrain.

The post Blundstone Classic vs All-Terrain first appeared on Pack & Trail.

1 and 2 bedroom cabins, studio cabins and garden suites are steps from the fine sand of Mackenzie Beach.

Each of the cabins has a full kitchen, propane fireplace, full size bathtub, chairs on a small patio, and a picnic table. Relax inside with a coffee with views of the water or take a stroll in the beach.

The cabins are open all year round and are perfect for warming up and storm watching in the winter or a base for surfing and playing in the water in the summer.

I recently spent 3 nights there in February. We were treated with 100 km/h winds the first night, snow the second day, and warm sun the last 2 days.

What do the cabins have in them?

The cabins have a full kitchen with dishes and cookware.

The bathroom has a full tub and local organiic toiletries. Towels and bed linens are provided.

The cabins were build in 1976 and updated in 2009. The staff keep them very clean and well-maintained.

I was worried our first night when the wind gusts off the water were reaching 100 km/h and shaking the cabins. We had no issues with anything and the power didn’t even go out.

Sleeping that night was tough! I was worried something would break but absolutely nothing did. Though they get storms regularly (great for storm watching!) wind that strong is rare.

The resort also has wifi and laundry.

What can you do at the resort?

Just at the resort there’s lots to do. We spent most of our time roaming the beach and then warming up in the cabin, enjoying the view.

An indoor heated pool and hut tub were great for warming up. The ocean isn’t ever very warm!

Adirondack chairs are on the patios and around the property by the firepits. A picnic shelter with a BBQ is a great place for lunch.

A small hedge maze for the kids is right beside the cabins.

A few steps down the grass and you’re on Mackenzie Beach, 1 km long beach with fine sand and great islands to explore at the south end. At low tide you can walk right to the rocks and trees that make up the islands.

One thing to note is there is no restaurant at the restaurant. There are a ton of great place to eat or buy food a few minutes away in Tofino. We brought our own food to cook in the kitchen. Some of it was premade to save even more time for playing on the beach.

What’s nearby to do?

Outside the resort the options are too many to list.

A short 6 min (4km) drive and you’re in Tofino with all it’s surf shops, local art galleries, and restaurants. You could spend a week just exploring the nooks and crannies in Tofino alone. The bike path along the highway is a great way to get there too.

A 10 minute drive away is the world famous Long Beach. Long Beach is 16km long and gorgeous the entire way. You can ride your bike on it, surf, beachcomb or just lay in the sand.

At the other end of the peninsula is Ucluelet, a quieter, but no less interesting town. It’s not known for it’s beaches but the Wild Pacific Trail winds it’s way along the rocky cliffs. A short walk from the parking lot is the Amphritrite Point lighthouse. During the storms, the waves explode dozens of feet into the area on the rocks around the lighthouse. The Ucluelet Aquarium has local wildlife found and released every year from the nearby ocean.

Hike the Canso Bomber Crash. Such a cool piece of history to be found through a beautiful west cost biome. Radar Hill is another local piece of history with amazing views.

A short hike along the Rainforest Trail takes you along boardwalk through lush west coast rainforest.

Many of the shops in Tofino rent bikes. The town itself is very ridable and then there is the bike path in the forest along the highway. You can ride the 17km to Long Beach, the 40km to Ucluelet, or just around town.

Beachcoming along Mackenzie Beach right in front of the resort is great. There is also Chesterman Beach, Cox Bay, Florencia Bay, Long Beach, Combers Beach, Wickaninnish Beach and smaller ones like Tonquin, Middle, Third and Tinwis.

And of course there is there surfing. The conditions change daily and different seasons will be better for beginners or experienced pros. You can check the weather and webcams ahead of time. I suck at surfing so best to talk to one of the shops for more info!

How close are the cabins to the beach?

Literally a few steps. There a grassy field out the front door of most of the cabins and then onto the beach.

Is it close to Tofino?

Yes, is it a 6 minute drive to Tofino from Ocean Village. There is a paved path that leads along the main road into Tofino as well so it’s about a 4km walk or ride. Bikes are a popular way to get around here.

Ucluelet is much farther, about 40km or a 30 minute drive.

Is it dog friendly?

Yes, you can have dogs at Ocean Village and on Mackenzie Beach. They even get a pet care package. They must be on a leash. There is a limit of 2 per unit and a fee of $30/night.

Since they may be wet and sandy from the beach, there is a dog washing station near the cabins. Bad Dog Tofino has gear, treats, and pup cups.

Can you surf at Ocean Village?

Mackenzie Beach is a fairly small bay that doesn’t usually produce good surfing waves. It can be good for beginners or during storms. Cox Bay, Chesterman Beach, and Long Beach are usually better for surfing.

There are many places to rent surf and paddle boards in Tofino. Many of them offer lessons as well like Tofino Surf School, Pacific Surf School, and Surf Sister.

How to get to Tofino

Tofino is on the west coast of Vancouver Island, BC, Canada. It is a 3 hour drive from Nanaimo or 4 hours from Victoria. There are many beautiful views a long the way, so allow time for that if you want to stop or have a break.

Tofino does have it’s own airport and there are daily flights from Vancouver as well.

Booking a stay at Ocean Village

The easiest way to book at Ocean Village is right on their website.

You can also book with Expedia, Kayak, or Booking.com. TripAdvisor links to some other sites as well.

Final Thoughts

Have you stayed at Ocean Village? What did you think? It’s one of my favourite places to stay around Tofino and I’ve been many times.

Are there any other cabins on Vancouver Island I should try? Let me know in the comments!

More Photos

The post Cozy Cabins near Tofino: Ocean Village Resort first appeared on Pack & Trail.

This list is in no particular order, mostly the date it was reviewed.

Smith Guide’s Choice Photochromic Sunglasses

The Smith’s Guide Choice sunglasses are photochromic category 2 to 3 and polarized, making for an ideal fishing lens. ChromaPop filters crossover colours making red, green, and blue pop.

The glasses lenses are on the heavy side but they are the clearest and brightest lens I’ve ever used.

Full Review

Check price of the Smith Guide’s Choice

OnX Backcountry GPS App

GPS apps have overtaken dedicated GPS as the go-to for navigation. OnX is one of the best.

It’s easy to use on any kind of phone. Your saved info goes back and forth to a full-screen map on the computer. It’s light on the user-generated tracks in BC, but has a lot already baked into the included maps.

Full Review

Check prices and plans for OnX Backcountry

REI Wonderland Camp Chair

Not all chairs are built equal. Some aren’t comfortable. Some fall apart. Some are hard to carry.

The REI Wonderland Camp Chair is pretty much my dream camp chair. The wide seat is comfortable without being hard. The back is tall and slightly reclined. The cupholder is somehow still attached. And the carry strap is permanently attached and holds it closed while carrying.

Full Review

Check price on REI

Yeti Rambler 532 Mug

I went on a cleaning spree after getting this mug. Some of the complicated lids had never been cleaned and were black inside.

The Yeti Rambler has just 2 pieces to the lid that twist apart. And it’s totally water-tight. And it’s bombproof.

Full Review

Check price on Amazon

EXPED MegaMat Max Sleeping Mat

Poor sleep ruins camping or any adventure. It’s hard to enjoy the trip when you’re dead tired. What you’re sleeping on impacts sleep greatly.

The EXPED MegaMat Max is 15cm thick and filled with foam core. The foam expands and almost inflates itself. It also holds the sides vertical instead of sloped down so you get more surface area to lay on. And instead of just laying on a bouncy balloon it structures it more like a bed.

Full Review

Check prices on the MegaMat Max

LowePro Tactic 45 Camera Backpack

Right off the bat, I loved the look of this camera pack. I did assume it would not be comfortable with out square it is. Turns out it’s more comfortable than most backpacks I’ve ever worn.

The top opens for quick access or the whole back for all your camera gear. Tripods fit easily on either side. Velcro organizers can be moved around anywhere inside.

Full review

Check price on Amazon

Helly Hansen Verglas Down Insulated Jacket

I don’t really think of down jackets when I think of Helly Hansen but their Verglas down jacket is easily my favourite from the last couple years.

The Verglas isn’t bulky so it works well on any cool day (of which there are many in the Pacific Northwest). If it is raining AND cool, then it can fit under a shell. The pockets are big and the lining soft.

Full review

Check the price on HellyHansen.com (2.0 version)

Julbo Arise Photochromic sunglasses

My test for sunglasses is how often I forget I’m wearing them. For the Julbo Arise, it was a lot. They are ridiculously light. The photochromic lenses tint so light you can wear them at night. The gentle curve and soft surface on the arms keeps them in exactly the place you put them.

I beat the daylights out of the first pair I had and I’m on to my second pair.

Full Review

Check out Julbo’s other photochromic sunglasses

Check out Julbo sunglasses on REI

Osprey Talon 33 Backpack

The Osprey Talon 33 may be the best backpack I’ve ever used. I have a few other Osprey Backpacks and can’t say enough good things about them.

It’s travelled around the world and on too many adventures to count. It’s light, it’s packable, it’s comfortable, it’s bombproof.

The 33 is such a flexible size. I’ve used it for overnight nights or just a daypack travelling. Mine is 17 years old at this point and still going.

Full Review

The post Editor’s Choice Gear first appeared on Pack & Trail.

Julbo was founded in 1888 in Morez, France providing crystal hunters sunglasses to use in the Jura mountain range. Since then they’ve expanded to every sport possible, making glasses for sailing, skiing, riding, running, and climbing.

Their photochromic lenses may be the best in the world, changing tint quickly with the light in any temperature, often with hydrophobic and anti-fog coatings.

This review is on a base model of the Shield frames with the Spectron 3 Polarized lens. Built for high-altitude use, they work just about anywhere. Polarization cuts glare on snow or water. spandex shields cuts light from the sides.

I much prefer photochromic lenses for most situations but there are some like driving where they don’t work as well. I’ve added a list of the other lenses available for the Shield below.

Specs

Lens

With a large, polycarbonate lens, the Shields cut the light well. Polycarbonate are lighter than glass but still very clear. The red mirror finish helps improve the filtration of light and looks great, in my opinion.

The version I tested has the Spectron 3 lens. It’s a straight category 3 lens with 12% VLT (visible light transmission). They’re good all-around sunny day lens.

The polarization cuts the light from snow, water, or road after the rain. They worked well for seeing fish through the water or just seeing at all when bright sun comes out after the rain

I prefer a cat 2 or 3 lens for driving since car windshields usually filter UV. The UV light is required to trigger the tint in the photochromic versions.

Many other lenses are available for the Shield, each with their own pricing. I have used the Reactiv (photochromic) lenses with other models and they are absolutely game-changing. They tint with the light so you never have to take them off.

• Alti Arc 4 – Cat 4 mineral lens. VLT 7%. Clearer than plastic lenses. Anti-reflective coating.
• Spectron 4 – Cat 4 polycarbonate lens. VLT 5%. Anti-reflective coating.
• Reactiv 2-4 Polarized – (old name Cameleon) – Photochromic cat 2-4 VLT 5-20%. Polarized. internal anti-fog coating. Fast tint change in any temperature. External oil repellent coating. Brown tint for relief and contrast.
• Spectron 3 – Cat 3 polycarbonate lens (VLT 13%) – multipurpose
• Reactiv 2-4 (old name Zebra) – 7-35% VLT – internal anti-fog coating, external oil-repellent coating. Cat 2 to 4 in 22 seconds.
• Reactiv 0-4 High Contrast – 4-86% VLT. Largest photochromic range on market. Clear base. Cat 4 high end. High contrast for reading relief.

Comfort and Fit

The Shield are quite large. I have medium to large head and they’re still a touch big for me. The Shield M are basically the same glasses but slightly smaller.

The nose and temples have non-slip grip on them which grips but doesn’t pull on hair. I don’t have much hair to pull on so that wasn’t an issue! It would be nice if the arms wrapped around my head a bit more to keep them in place. The arms are non-adjustable.

The Shield M has slightly shorter temples and slightly smaller lenses, making them narrower overall.

Silicone Cord

The Shields come with a short silicone cord that fits snug around the back of your head. It was very easy to put on and off. It’s not very long but gives enough space to put them on and off, or hang around your neck.

They can be slid on further to keep them tight against your head if you want.

The ends of the temples have openings for standard leashes as well.

Shield

The Shields come with spandex, clip-on shields for the side of the lenses. They clip on easy put stay put very well. I never had an issue with them moving. They do reduce ventilation a little so if you’re sweating buckets you might want to remove them. They do have small vent holes in them with help a little.

A small tab holds them to the inside of the arm and they are quick to clip on and off. I found they touched my face a bit if the glasses were pushed in tight.

The spandex is heat, cold and water resistant. They don’t absorb anything so you can use them in any conditions.

Case

Julbo includes their standard hard and soft-sided case with the Shields. The top and bottom are hard, while the sides are soft. They pack down in your gear without taking up a lot of room.

Final thoughts

Julbo sunglasses are easily the best I’ve ever used. The prices are up there with the best brands in the world but absolutely worth it, especially for the photochromic lenses.

The Shields are ideal for high-altitude use but I’ve often got them on fishing, driving, hiking and biking. The cat 3, non-photochromic lens are perfect for driving or most sunny days. The Spectron lenses are also $150 less.

My favourite lenses are either the Reactiv 2-4 Polarized for sun and water or the Reactiv 0-4 for low light general use. Being able to wear them all day and still being able to see in any light conditions was game-changing for me. Most of my sunglasses I’ve broken or lost, I took them off because they were too dark or light.

Prices:

SPECTRON 3: $157.49 CAD

REACTIV 2-4 Polarized: $305 CAD

More Photos

I received a free product sample from Julbo to test for this review. This post contains affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you make a purchase through my links, at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products I believe in. All opinions are my own.

The post Julbo Shield with SPECTRON 3 Lens Review first appeared on Pack & Trail.

In this review, we bashed around the Moab, a class riding-focused frame with the Light Night Fototec photochromic lenses.

Specs

Photochromic

The Light Night Fototec lenses on our tested Moab’s have 82% to 14% VLT.

82% is almost completely clear and 14% is great for a sunny day. 82 is category 0 and 14 is category 3. Category 4 starts at 8%

At 82% these were great at the beginning or end of the day with little light in the trees. They were basically just wearing a clear lens at that point. When the sun comes out from behind the clouds or the trees, they darken down automatically.

Comfort

The Moab lenses are huge. They easily cover my eyes and more. Any way I looked, was covered by lens. The frame is visible but it’s thin and barely blocks anything.

At only 31 grams, they are nice and light. It’s easy to forget that I’m wearing them. My perfect sunglasses stay in place all day and are light enough to not notice they’re there. The Moab’s fall into that category.

The arms come a bit curved and stay on well right out of the box. They can be adjusted to be tighter or looser which helps get a good fit.

The nose piece and arms have hydrophilic rubber on them, getting grippier as they get wet. I didn’t find them very grippy but they stayed in place no problem.

I didn’t have any issues with fogging riding and running in wet conditions. They sat off my face a bit which helps with the ventilation.

They’re a medium-large fit, which fit my head fine. They will be big on small faces.

Sizing

• 149mm wide total
• 138mm lens width
• 56mm lens height
• 15mm bridge width
• 126.5 temple length

Other Lenses

Tifosi has a bunch of different lenses for the Moab, some interchangeable, some Fototec (photochromic). We tested the Light Night Fototec.

Fototec (photochromic) – $89.95 USD

• Clarion Red Fototec- 65%-14%
• Clarion Blue Fototec – 46% – 13%
• Clarion Gold Fototec – 50% – 12%
• Light Night Fototec – 82%-14%

Interchangeable lenses – $79.95 USD

• Clear
• AC Red – 41.4%
• Smoke/Clarion – 15%

The Clarion coating on some lenses repels water and sweat. Definitely useful for wet or sweaty days.

Final Thoughts

Tifosi are hard to beat for value. The lens quality isn’t quite the same as $200+ frames but you don’t have to pay that either. At the rate I lose sunglasses it’s hard to keep buying $200+ frames.

Getting reliable photochrimic glasses at this price is hard to find. When they’re comfortable, barely fog and have a lifetime warranty, that’s even more rare.

I love the 82% to 14% VLT on the Moab Light Night Fototec. I can wear them all day without having to take them off (and likely losing or breaking them when I lose track of them). The clear in the trees or at night during the winter is still clear and easy to see.

Another great option for these frames is the Clarion Red Fototec with 65%-14% VLT. Still photochromic with a good range but not quite as clear. But then you get the Clarion coating to repel water and sweat.

For another option similar to the Moab, the Moab Lite came out in 2025. It’s just frameless with a similar lens setup.

Price: $89.95 USD

I received a free product sample from Tifosi to test for this review. This post contains affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you make a purchase through my links, at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products I believe in. All opinions are my own.

The post Tifosi Moab Sunglasses Review first appeared on Pack & Trail.

Litheli have an entire ecosystem of power gear and tools used with their U20 20,000 mAh batteries. Along with those tools is a powered wagon capable of moving 130 or 300 pounds, depending on the model.

We tested the W1 Pro wagon with 2 U20 batteries. We dragged 100 pounds around the yard on the grass, concrete paths and rough rocky road to see if a battery and motor on a wagon was worth it.

Specs

Setup

The setup with the wagon was very straightforward. It comes mostly assembled.

It’s packed very well in a fitted box with lots of cardboard to prevent it from bouncing around. I took it out of the box and added the wheels. I charged the batteries to 100% and was ready to roll.

Pulling

Pulling the W1 Pro is easy. Just pull it. It operates just like a normal wagon.

If you hold the unlock button on the end of the handle and then pull the main lever inside the handle, it will start moving by itself. Let go of the main lever inside the handle and it stops. You can pull without turning it on (non-powered mode) by not holding the unlock button.

My hand was getting tired holding the lock button the whole time until I realized that’s just needed to engage the main lever inside and then you can let go of it.

A small dial at the top of the handle sets the speed. It starts at 0.6 m/s or a slow walking speed. The dial stays where you set it well so you don’t have to hold it. 1.3 m/s is the fastest speed or a regular walking speed. I found this a comfortable walking speed. I normally walk a bit faster than this so I wish it could go a little higher on the dial but it didn’t take long to get around.

It is possible to spin the dial for a different speed with the hand that’s already on the wagon but it’s tough. It’s easier to use your other hand or stop and change it.

I did notice with heavy weight, on rough rocky road, the lever inside the handle was engaging without holding the unlock button. It would make a difference if the battery wasn’t in or dead. I was trying to pull it without turn it on to see how it would feel. (Awfully heavy with 100 pounds of gear and the 30 pound wagon!)

There isn’t a reverse mode so keep that in mind if you’ve got a heavy load. I tested it with 100 pounds and pushing it around with that load was still possible but tough so keep an exit plan in mind when stopping anywhere.

The W1 doesn’t technically have brakes but if the motor is engaged slowly, it will slow it down well. I turned the speed down to it’s slowest going down the hills and it would slow the wagon down. With larger hills and heavier weight it could still get going too fast. For bigger hills I let the wagon go first backwards so I can keep it going slow.

Whenever I stopped the motor would disengage. It was easier on hills to keep it moving slowly with the motor engaged, just like gearing down in a car.

The handle is attached straight to the front of the wagon and doesn’t turn side to side like the old Radio Flyer wagons. This is pretty standard across most utility wagons. The bars feel quite strong but it took a bit of coaxing to get the wheels to turn tightly with lots of weight in the wagon. I’m not sure if a handle that can pivot would work better for tight turns.

The wheels are strong and have a bit of grip on them. Being hard plastic, they get slippery when they get wet compared to a rubber tire. On wet rocky hills, they slipped but still provided assistance up the hill. I was grateful for this when trying to get back up a big hill when testing to get back to the car!

U20 Battery

The wagon comes with a U20 battery from Litheli. The U20 is a generic battery that powers many of their power tools. We tested the kit that came with two 4.0 Ah batteries. Different version of the kit come with 1 or 2 batteries. If you already have a bunch of the batteries you can get the wagon alone.

The kits that have batteries come with a power cord but no adapter. I have a bunch of adapters so this was fine. To get the full speed of the charge the adapter has to be 45 watts. Most phone chargers are 5 watts, although 20 watt fast chargers are getting more common. It charges with a 5 watt adapter no problem, just slower.

Along with powering the wagon, it can be used as a power bank with the one 45 watt USB-C port. The USB-C port is on the bottom when it’s plugged into the wagon so you can’t use both at the same time.

The 74 watt-hour rating falls under the limit to fly so you can fly with them. I doubt you’ll be flying with the wagon but the batteries are useful for charging all devices. More USB-C outputs would make it more useful as a general charger though.

The batteries come in 2 sizes: 4.0 Ah and 2.0 Ah. They end up being 20,000 mAh and 10,000 mAh respectively.

Folding

The W1 is easy to fold. There’s a small tab on the bottom in the middle. Just pull up on this and the bottom lifts, the ends slide together and it folds up.

The folding tab isn’t strong enough to carry it with. I tried to lift it there and it starts to tear. It would be nice to have some sort of handle strong enough to carry.

Once it’s folded together, there’s a strap on the bottom to clip the ends together, keeping it folded. It would be easy to use if this clip was on the side or top. It’s easiest to lay it down and clip it together. It does stand up while folded.

The front wheels need to be turned sideways for it to fold to it’s smallest size and the clip to reach. It’s easy to nudge them to the side.

Tailgate

The official capacity of the W1 is 200 liters and that is with the tailgate down. It’s about 140 liters inside with the tailgate up.

The tailgate is great for accessing items in the back without unpacking or just carrying longer items. If there is weight in the front, things like 8 foot 2x4s will fit. If you have the table attachment on top you can still get in the back.

There is a zipper and plastic clips holding it up. Once it’s down, strong webbing holds it flat.

Durability

The 600D Oxford fabric is pretty tough. It’s removable to be able to clean which should extend if it’s life.

Be careful with hard plastic items on rough terrain. I walked a couple kilometers on rough rock. The wagon and everything in it was shaking the whole way. The hard plastic on the bottom of my camp chair was start to wear through. I put a blanket around spots that may rub. Smooth grass and concrete don’t cause much of a problem.

Accessories

Litheli has a few accessories to go with the wagon.

The main accessory that would be useful, as well as with all the other Litheli tools, is more batteries. You can have a few with you if you are carrying a big load or are going a long way.

A rolling table is also available. It clips on to the top. This does make it a bit harder to get things inside the wagon but the tailgate can still open for access.

W2 Pro Electric Wagon

Litheli already have the successor to the W1 Pro out, the W2 Pro and there are some pros and cons.

Final Thoughts

Wagons are great for carrying loads around the yard, camping or the beach. It’s easy to load them up to be so heavy, they’re almost unusable.

Electric wagons solve this problem with their batteries and electric motors so you easily pull around hundreds of pounds by just holding the button on the handle.

The Lithei W1 Pro (tested here) and W2 Pro are almost 2 different wagons, with different features. Both are strong, durable and very easy to put together and use.

The W1 we tested powered through dirt, sand, gravel and rocky road with over 100 pounds in it. The bouncing started to wear a hole in the fabric when something sharp is against it but it slogged up hills and over rocks no problem.

The biggest difference between the W1 and W2 are the motors and weight capacity. A single 450 watt motor on the W1 while the W2 has 2. The power and frame increases the weight capacity from 132 pounds on the W1 to 300 pounds on the W2. This all comes at a cost of battery life: 20 min on the W2 vs 30 on the W2. Either way 2 batteries and a station to charge is very helpful to swap out as needed.

For me, the extra range and tailgate gives the W1 the edge and my preference, though I’d love a combination of the 2, taking the best of both.

On top of the W1 Pro being a solid wagon for dragging around very heavy loads, the U20 batteries fit all Litheli’s other power tools like snowblowers, lawnmowers, and chainsaws.

Highly recommended.

Price: $596 CAD but can be on sale down to $326 or less.

More photos

The post Litheli W1 Pro Wagon Review first appeared on Pack & Trail.

Because I took them off.

When the light gets too dim, then they go on the deck of my boat or on my hat or helmet.

And then get lost and broken.

Someone somewhere decided I didn’t have to suffer any more 15 years ago and introduced me to photochromic sunglasses. They change tint with the light, adjust to just the right amount when the some comes out, or it hides behind a cloud. Head into the trees? They lighten. Come back out into the sun? They darken.

Why these aren’t in every gas station and on every corner, I don’t know. They are one of the best pieces of gear I’ve invested in the last couple decades being outside.

Are there different options out there? There are. Not a lot, but some companies are starting to realize the miracle of photochromic. They are harder to make, which makes them more expensive. And to do it well, I’m sure takes time and money.

Some photochromic sunglasses are polarized as well. Some are impact-tested safety glasses too. Some take batteries.

Here are our favourites we’ve tested recently (with a buying guide below).

Smith Guide’s Choice

Just look at the green mirror on those. Looks aside, the Smith’s Choice are built from the ground up for fishing. Polarization cuts glare off the water. Photochromic Category 2-3 adjust light for cloud and sunny days. ChromaPop brightens colors and increases definition, especially for fish.

Spy Rebar and Logan

Most sunglasses can take a hit but few are impact certified. How many are tested by firing a quarter-inch steel ball at 150 feet per second at them?

The Spy ANSI line are. The Rebar and Logan (and a few others) are ANSI Z87-2+ certified, suitable for work requiring eye protection.

Best part is they’re killer sunglasses too. As soon as work is done, head outside and you don’t have to swap shades. They go from a completely clear category 0 to category 3 for a sunny day.

Both are ANSI certified. The Rebar is lightly bigger with a larger lens.

Chamelo Music Shield

Ok, these ones aren’t photochromic, we snuck them in here.

They are electrochromic.

Power them on and slide your finger across the temple and they tint in 0.1 second and stay there.

Oh, and they play music too.

Lol, wut?

Not to mention they are super comfortable, stay on your face even with a lot of sweat and provide great coverage. Not bad for a brand new type of product.

ActiveDim Pioneer

Coming from a golfing background, ActiveDim brings the Pioneer to the game. They’re insanely light, photochromic category 1 to 3 AND polarized. One of the few we could find with polarization.

I wasn’t sure if the price was correct on these ones and it is. Too good to be true.

Tifosi Moab

Quality photochromic sunglasses are always expensive right? Not Tifosi. They’ve managed to make lightweight, comfortable riding and running glasses with photochromic lenses under $100. With a lifetime warranty to boot. The Light Night lenses go all the way from 82% to 14% VLT. Same shades for low light and bright sun.

Buying Guide for Photochromic Sunglasses

Photochromic

Photochromic lenses change with the light. Like a transition lens on a prescription glasses. They are still somewhat rare with sport sunglasses but some industries, like biking, are really picking them up because of their versatility.

A film of liquid crystals are built in between multiple layers of the lens. UV light triggers them to change orientation. This darkens the lens, blocking some of the light, keeping your eyes happier.

Electrochromic

Another way to orient the liquid crystals and darken the tint is electricity. This requires a battery but is very fast. It doesn’t require UV light on the lens.

The Chamelo Music Shield are electrochromic.

Polarized

Polarization is like a venetian blind for reflected light. It let’s most light in, blocking light reflected from other surfaces like the road, water or snow. This reduces eye strain and increases the clarity of the fish or trail in front of you.

While still rare combined with photochromic lenses, some companies are seeing the light. Lenses for fishing or sailing are often polarized.

The Smith Guide’s Choice and ActiveDim Pioneer are photochromic and polarized.

VLT (Visible Light Transmission)

The amount of light allowed through a lens is measured as Visible Light Transmission or VLT.

0% is totally blocked, 100% completely clear.

Photochromic lenses use a range to show the transition from light to dark. For example the Chamelo Music Shield starts at 63%, and darkens to 17%. The Spy Rebar is almost clear at 85% and darkens to 13%. 

Regular sunglasses have a set VLT. Photochromic lenses will have a range.

Category

The Category on a lens represents the VLT in a simpler number. 0 is clear, 4 is so dark it’s not safe for driving.

The Spy Rebar starts at category 0 to 3.

Color filters

Some lenses have additional filters on them to boost the colors or filter certain wavelengths of light.

Smith ChromaPop filters crossovers between distinct colors of light. This makes each color brighter and increases the definition between them. The Guide’s Choice has ChromaPop.

Spy Happy Boost filters out wavelengths of light that cause eye strain, leaving wavelengths that boost alertness and mood. They also increase contrast and color slightly leaving you with a clearer picture. The Spy Rebar has an option for the Happy Boost lens.

The post Best Photochromic Sunglasses: Automagic Tinting first appeared on Pack & Trail.